Tainan (Feb 2-3): A Quick Family Visit

My trip to Tainan was a quick one, which was alright because I’ll be going there again in a couple of weeks. I have a cousin who has his own English school in Tainan, and he’s been living there for years. It just so happened that his parents (my aunt and uncle) were planning to visit him at the same time that I would be in Taiwan, so I decided to make an overnight trip to go visit since I haven’t seen anyone in my family for over a year. Yeh and Carina helped me get my train ticket from Taichung to Tainan, which we were easily able to get from a machine found in any Family Mart or 7-Eleven. The only problem with these machines is that there isn’t an English option, so I really don’t know how I’ll buy train tickets without someone who speaks Mandarin. Anyway, my ticket was 363TWD ($16.13AUD) and it would take two hours to travel to Tainan (I decided to save a bit more money by not taking the high speed train, as they tend to be a lot more expensive). Yeh and Carina took me to the platform and I got on my train at 12:15. I arrived in Tainan at 2:15 and my cousin, Mike, was waiting for me in the station. With a motorbike. Great… However, this experience was a lot easier than my first scooter experience, as this bike was a lot more spacious and I wasn’t as tense because I was basically an expert at this point. We arrived at his house in north Tainan about 20-30 minutes later, where I got to meet his wife Sandy, and see my Auntie Linda and Uncle Keith. The whole time I was there was basically a whole bunch of visiting, which is a normal family get-together. Mike, my uncle Keith, and I walked about 30 seconds down the road to a mom-and-pop store, where we got some beer to go with dinner. It was so nice to see such a small shop with all the basic necessities. We went back to the house and Mike grilled up a storm. I was delighted to have a western-style dinner, especially just being able to have barbecued steak and mashed potatoes, which I feel like I haven’t had in ages.

That night, I was finally able to see the Taiwanese garbage truck, which drives around playing music (similar to something you’d hear from an ice cream truck) and alerts everyone to take the garbage out and throw it into the truck as it passes by. After dinner, we walked less than one minute in the opposite direction of the mom-and-pop store to a little fruit stand, where there was a friendly woman selling many different types of fruit. We picked up a few and then went back to the house, where we visited some more before going to bed.

On Sunday morning, I got up and ready for the day, packed up my stuff, had a coffee and visited with my Auntie Linda, and then a taxi came to pick us up at the house. It dropped us off at Mike’s school, which had cute little classrooms and a huge assortment of books. We stored my bag in the school and then walked to the restaurant where we’d be going to for brunch. We also met up with one of Mike’s friends with his wife and two kids. The restaurant was a buffet place called 饗食天堂 (or Eat Together Buffet), and it had many different types of cuisine so that everyone would be able to find something that they liked. I actually stayed away from the western section, and I filled myself up on the Japanese section (twice!), the dim sum section, and of course the dessert section.

The food was so good, and I had been craving sushi for so long, so it was nice to finally have some that I knew was fresh! After we were all too full to eat anymore, I said my goodbyes to my aunt and uncle and then Sandy and Mike took me in a taxi to the train station.

Sandy (who is Taiwanese) went to the ticket counter and I ended up getting the last seat on the next train, which would depart in 15 minutes! My aunt and uncle ended up covering my train ticket to Taipei, and my cousin covered breakfast so I felt kind of spoiled while I was there. With Taiwan being the most expensive country of my travels, it definitely means a lot when I get the extra help!! I said goodbye to Mike and Sandy, who I’d be seeing again in a couple of weeks, and I waited for my train to come. The stop to Tainan was definitely worth it, and it was so nice to see some familiar Canadian family, especially after being away from Canada and Australia for a fair amount of time. I’m looking forward to my next time in Tainan in two weeks! Love always

Taichung (Jan 30-Feb 2): Rainbows, Windmills, and a Moving Ceremony

My first stop in Taiwan has been one of the highlights of my entire trip, due to the company and the experiences. It was just nice to get away from hostel life for awhile, and spend some time in a house where I even got my own room AND bathroom – a luxury for a backpacker! I arrived in Taipei just before 4pm, went through customs, and got some money exchanged. I had saved some Thai Baht to exchange into Taiwanese dollars since they are nearly equal (1 THB = 0.98 TWD) but when I went to the currency exchange, the rates were 0.83, so I’d be losing a lot of money! I only exchanged a few bills just so I’d have SOME cash with me. Then I looked into getting a SIM card, but all of the phone companies were offering one month of unlimited data for 1000TWD ($44.80AUD), which was a bit too much for me. I decided to try to get by with just using Wifi. I had to get to the High Speed Rail Station (HSR), so I took the MRT (metro) for 150TWD ($6.67). I got there at 5pm, bought a ticket to Taichung for 540TWD ($24), and had to wait until 5:45 for the next train. This was one of those rare instances where I decided to pay more for transportation since I had already been travelling all day and my friends were waiting for me in Taichung. I was starving at that point because I hadn’t eaten since 10am that morning, so I walked around and just picked up a croissant with egg salad and a hot chocolate at Miss Croissant for 109TWD ($4.84). While I was walking around, I was surprised to see the Canadian store “Roots.” I had always assumed that if I saw someone wearing a Roots sweater, they would have gotten it from Canada but I guess I was mistaken. This Roots even had a cafe… I don’t think the Canadian Roots even have cafes!

Anyway, I got on my train at 5:45 and arrived in Taichung 40 minutes later (these high speed trains can reach speeds of up to 300km/hour!). However, when I got there, I couldn’t find any wifi anywhere. To connect to any of the free networks, I needed a Taiwanese phone number, which I didn’t have. I walked around for about 10-15 minutes in the station and FINALLY found a wifi connection so that I could contact Yeh and Carina, my friends who worked with me at the tomato farm in Australia and who lived in the room next to me in my first Warragul house. I hadn’t seen them in nearly a year (when they had decided to quit the tomato farm and move to another town called Griffith), so it was nice to catch up again! We drove to the Fengjia night market, which is a famous night market in Taichung. There, I tried a bunch of new foods! The first was grilled shrimp. But not just a shrimp that you put on the BBQ, de-tail, de-head, and eat. No, these ones were grilled so you could eat the entire thing – shell, head, eyes, and all!

I was a bit apprehensive at first, but it was actually really good, especially with the lemon flavour added to it! I then tried guava for the first time, which was also tasty. Then, we went for chicken steaks. They were absolutely humongous! But it was deep fried and tasted like KFC, so naturally I liked it. I tried some deep-fried sweet potato balls, some sea-flavoured clams (which really did taste like the sea! 😉), and then we went for some milk bubble tea. Afterwards, Yeh asked if I wanted to try a Taiwanese hotdog, where the bun is a sausage made with rice, which was another new thing for me.

All of the food was sooo good, and I was extremely full when we left! We went back to Carina’s family’s house and I met her mom and dad, who were so friendly! They just moved into a gorgeous house that was four floors, with the kitchen and living room on the bottom, two bedrooms on the next floor, another two bedrooms on the next floor (one was Carina’s and I got to stay in the other), and a god/temple room and laundry on the top floor. All of the bedrooms had their own bathroom, which was amazing! The family was planning a traditional ceremony to officially move into the house in two days, and they said that I could join in. It wasn’t difficult for me to quickly feel comfortable in their home! Even though Carina’s family didn’t speak English, I still felt the warmth and kindness of her family.

On Wednesday morning, I got up and visited with Yeh while we waited for Carina to finish her spin class. Yeh had done some research the night before and found a 30-day phone plan for 699TWD ($31.07) and even though this was still more expensive compared to Malaysia, I figured I should get it for convenience since I’d be meeting up with multiple people in Taiwan. We got the SIM card and then they took me to Rainbow Village, which is painted by a former soldier named Huang Yong-Fu (now known as “Grandpa Rainbow”). The shocking thing is that this man was born in 1924 and just celebrated his 95th birthday a couple of weeks ago! He still gets up at 4 or 5 in the morning to work on the paintings, which is so impressive – I couldn’t imagine how much work would have to go into it!

After spending a half hour in Rainbow Village, we went to a hotpot restaurant called 輕井澤•拾七 拾鍋石鍋 (my mandarin is improving 😉). We each got our own bowl of broth and a lunch combo, which came with a variety of vegetables, tofu and seafood, and my main meat was beef.

We stayed for at least an hour and a half while I attempted to eat everything. I got through most of it but I was so full; it was a lot of food! After lunch, we went to the Science Center for an hour and a half, since it closed at 5pm. Most of the exhibits were only written in Mandarin (a few updated ones had English added onto them) but being a science teacher, I was able to get the gyst of everything.

I always enjoy myself at natural history and science museums, and they tend to be the ONLY museums that I enjoy in most circumstances. After the museum closed, we stopped for a quick snack before heading back to Carina’s house. Carina had to stay and help her family prepare for the ceremony the next day, so Yeh toured me around that evening. However, when he said that the traffic was really bad so it would be better to take his scooter, I wasn’t too excited. I’ve never been on a motorcycle or scooter before, mostly due to the fact that I can hear my mom’s voice in my head, telling me not to ride them. I didn’t have a choice this time…

I got on the back of the scooter and my heart was pumping so fast – I was beyond nervous! Yeh and Carina found it pretty entertaining, as they’ve grown up riding scooters since they were kids. My first scooter ride was nearly 40 minutes long, and I was tense the entire time. When I got off, I could hardly walk because my muscles had to be stretched out again! I said how tense I had been and Yeh’s response was, “Yeah, I could tell..” Perhaps I learned something new from the python I saw in the rainforest last week… Anyway, we went to the National Taichung Theatre, which is an opera house with a really spectacular design – there aren’t any vertical walls! We looked around inside because they have a lot of cool craft shops, and then we made our way up to the rooftop garden, which looked amazing in the nighttime!

We then walked to Maple Garden Park, which has a pond in the middle with huge fish.

I then had to get back on the scooter and we went to a dumpling restaurant called 饕之鄉. Yeh knew of the dumpling restaurant that Yang and Ron took me to in Shanghai (since it originated from Taiwan), but he said that it was overpriced and we could get dumplings that were just as good at this place. And he was right!

The main thing that I’ve noticed about all of the places that Yeh and Carina have taken me to for dinner is that all of the restaurants have their menus written in Mandarin and don’t have translations, so I’m curious to see how I’ll get by without them around! After dinner, we stopped at a market stall to try pancake-like desserts with red bean inside.

We then took the long scooter ride home, where I got to meet two of Carina’s aunts who were there helping to prepare for the ceremony. We had to wake up at 7:30 the next morning, so we all went to bed at about 11.

I got up at 7:30, got ready for the day, opened the windows and turned on all of the lights as I was told to, and then went downstairs to wait for further instruction. Yeh had brought some breakfast (and coffee for me!) for us to eat while we waited for the ancestors to arrive. Basically, this ceremony was very important because they had to move all of the (deceased) ancestors from the old house to the new house, so they brought in a priest to tell everyone what they needed to do since it was everyone’s first moving ceremony (not just mine!). We got a phone call just before 8:30 to say that the ancestors were almost there so we all went outside to wait for them. Yeh had made a fire in a pail outside so when the urn arrived, everyone had to step through the smoke of the fire after the ancestors, carry in something (such as a bottle of wine), and say some words of good luck when they entered the door. They taught me how to say some words in Mandarin and I had to keep repeating it in my head – I was so nervous that I was going to mess up! After we all came in, they brought the pail of fire into the house and set a kettle on top.

We went upstairs to the top floor, where the priest prepared the area. He did a lot of praying, burned some paper money, and blessed the wooden tiles with all of the ancestors’ names written on them. It was quite moving to see, and I felt really honoured to be a part of something so important to Carina and her family. Carina’s mom went around the house and threw coins in all of the rooms, which was to bring wealth and fortune to the family. We then had rice balls in a sweet, syrupy liquid. There were six balls in each bowl because it signified good luck.

After that, the rest of the family started showing up – aunts, uncles, lots of cousins, great aunts and uncles, etc., so Yeh and I went upstairs to sit in Carina’s room with her friends from high school. When we were ready to go for lunch, we all got in multiple vehicles and drove to a restaurant nearby. Carina’s parents said that they were expecting a maximum of 30 people but then 8 tables filled up, meaning there were 80 people there! This meal was another one of those meals that never ended, which had 10 courses plus an extra dish and dessert.

From my experience in China, I knew better than to fill myself up on the first course, but I still definitely slowed down by the time the 7th or 8th dish came out. We were there for a couple of hours, and it was nice trying all of the food and talking to Carina’s cousin since she was one of the few people who spoke English. We went back home for a a quick half hour rest and then went to the Luce Memorial Chapel, which is another unique building to see.

The chapel is on a University campus, so it was a big green area that was nice and quiet. After that, we went to the Gaomei Wetlands in hopes of catching the sunset. However, it was a pretty cloudy day so we weren’t able to see anything. It was a nice walk along the boardwalk next to the humongous windmills in the distance. However, the further we got from the mainland, the colder and windier it got. I was even cold by the end of it! Some people were getting off of the boardwalk and walking through the water in order to get some pictures closer to the windmills, which was crazy to me. I felt the water and it was freezing! The things people will go through for a picture…

We went to another nightmarket, which is used more for Chinese New Year shopping. Yeh said that most kids will get to shop for new clothes during Chinese New Year (similar to when we get to go shopping for clothes when we do back-to-school shopping). I got some taro milk (taro is my favourite!) and I tried a quail egg.

The only thing that I refused to try during my time in Taichung was the pig blood soup and cake – it was a bit too out of the ordinary for me! However, everything else was great! Yeh, Carina, and I went to a little restaurant and got noodles and soup, and then went back home. We arrived at about 9pm and by that point, I was about ready to go to bed – I think all of us were exhausted after such a busy day! After Carina went to bed, I decided to go as well.

The next morning, we all got up at 8:30 and I packed up my stuff. We went to 7-11 to buy my ticket to Tainan that afternoon. I got a 12:15 train, which would take 2 hours and would cost 363 TWD ($16.10). We then went to a restaurant called jai宅, which is such a cute restaurant that’s really artsy and has a lot of character. It has lots of areas to take pictures around the restaurant. For brunch, I got a crispy chicken sandwich with a salad (my first real salad in ages!) and potato wedges, along with a mango/banana smoothie. Everything was delicious! Although a tad pricier than what I normally pay at 400TWD ($17.78), but it was totally worth it!

After brunch, we drove to the train station, said our goodbyes, and I made my way to Tainan. I had such a great time in Taichung, likely due to the amazing people I was with, who are so friendly and hospitable. I was sad to say goodbye to them in Australia and sad to say goodbye to them again in Taiwan, but hopefully we’ll all be starting our second year in Australia at the same time, so we’ll be able to meet up again! Love always

From Malaysia to Taiwan (Jan 29-30)

I left for the Melaka bus station at about 1pm and walked to the clock tower to wait for the #17 bus to take me to the bus terminal. I had read that if I caught the bus there, it would take an hour to get to the bus terminal because the bus goes all the way around the city. There was an alternative option to walk all the way down Jonker Street and catch a bus at the end of the street, which would only take 20 minutes to the station. However, since I wasn’t in a huge hurry plus I couldn’t be bothered carrying around my backpack in the heat, I just decided to enjoy the longer bus ride. I paid 2 ringgit (65 cents AUD), arrived at the bus station around 2:10, and they said that the next bus to Kuala Lumpur would be at 2:30pm for 12.10 ringgit ($3.95AUD). I asked if there were any later ones since I still hadn’t eaten lunch and they said no (there were likely other ones with different companies but I didn’t want to check), so I quickly ran to McDonald’s and ate a burger and fries as fast as I could before getting on the bus. I arrived in Kuala Lumpur at 4:30pm in the TBS station and then had to take the metro to KL Sentral, which is where my hostel was located since it has direct access to the airport. I paid 6.50 ringgit for the metro ($2.12) and as soon as I got to KL Sentral, it started POURING rain. My hostel was only a few blocks away but I knew I’d be soaked by the time I got there, so I put on my rain jacket and ran over. I was staying at PODS Backpackers Home & Cafe for $9.83, in a 4-person female dorm. I only had a few hours to kill so I dropped off my stuff and made my way to Hard Rock Cafe because I collect drumsticks from every country I go to (that has a Hard Rock). The trip was a bit out of the way but luckily, they had some drumsticks that I could take home! Afterwards, I had to find an A&W nearby so I could finally have my long-awaited A&W. The closest one was about a 20-minute walk and because it stopped raining, I decided to just walk over. Much to my disappointment, they didn’t have the burger family like back at home, with the baby burger, teen burger, mama burger, etc. However, they DID have curly fries, which was new! I got a cheeseburger with curly fries, and a huge root beer float, and it was just what I needed!

After dinner, I walked to the nearest metro stop and took the metro back to the hostel, where I sat and visited for awhile before going to bed.

I had to wake up at 6 on Wednesday morning so that I could get ready, pack up my stuff, and have a quick breakfast (toast and coffee) before walking to KL Sentral to catch a bus to the airport. I got to the station at about 7:15, bought a bus ticket for 12 ringgit ($3.92), waited less than ten minutes for the bus to fill up completely, and arrived at the airport an hour later. I had already checked in online so I only had to get my documents checked but when I went to the counter, she said that I didn’t have to do anything and I could just go straight through customs, which was the first time that has ever happened. There were guys with scales standing at the front of customs and they were getting everyone to weigh their bags before they could go through. I panicked because I knew that my bag was now over the limit, but it seemed like luck was on my side because just as it was my turn, one of the guy’s coworkers came to talk to him so I was able to sneak by without having to weigh my bag. I then went through customs and had some noodles to eat before my 11am flight.

I was flying with Air Asia again, which meant no entertainment and no (free) food, so I needed to make sure that I ate enough before being on the plane for the next 4.5 hours. The plane ride seemed really long for me – it’s weird because I can handle really long bus and train rides but when I’m on a plane, I feel more antsy. I arrived in Taiwan just after 3:30pm and even though I flew 4.5 hours east, the time in Taiwan is the same as the time in Malaysia. However, instead of the sunset being just before 7:30pm like it is in Malaysia, it’s just after 5:30pm here.

Malaysia is a very multicultural country, mostly comprising of Malay, Chinese, and Indian people. Therefore, you’ll notice the influences of each culture in every city. Most cities have a Little India as well as a Chinatown. And you’ll often find churches, mosques and Buddhist temples within close proximity to each other. It’s difficult to get sick of the food there, since you can switch between many cuisines (and I definitely took advantage of the Indian and Chinese cuisines most of the time I was there!). I definitely enjoyed my time there (some places more than others), and would like to return to explore the eastern region at some point! Love always

Melaka (Jan 26-29): A Colourful City with a European Vibe

The trip to Melaka had the smoothest transitions that I think I’ve ever been a part of! We had the option of taking the quicker way from Taman Negara, which would cost 70 ringgit and would get us to Kuala Lumpur by 1 or 2pm, or we could do the cheaper way and apparently not get to Kuala Lumpur until after 5pm. Since none of us were in a hurry, we decided to go with the cheaper option (of course) so when we got to the bus just before 10am, we paid the driver 7 ringgit each ($2.21AUD) to go to Jerantut. We arrived at that terminal at 11:39, went to the ticket counter and found out that there was a direct bus to Kuala Lumpur at 11:45! We bought tickets for 18.40 ringgit ($6.01), put our bags on the bus, asked the driver if we could run to the bathroom, paid .30 ringgit (10 cents) to use the toilet, and ran onto the bus. We actually arrived in Kuala Lumpur at around 2pm, so we got there nearly just as quick as the “fast transportation” and paid 45 ringgit less! We had to get to the TBS station, so we bought metro tickets for 3.80 ringgit ($1.24). We then had to say goodbye to Alana, who was meeting back up with her boyfriend in Kuala Lumpur. Ros and I continued to the station and went to buy tickets to Melaka. Even though there was supposed to be a bus in the next 15 minutes, we decided to leave at 3:45 in order to give ourselves time to use the toilet and finally get some lunch. We paid 10.40 ringgit ($3.40) each for our bus tickets and then went to Subway, where I got a sub and drink for 11.20 ($3.66). My first sub in Asia – it was everything that I thought it would be! The bus ride to Melaka took exactly two hours so when we arrived, it was nearly 6pm. Then, we had to take a bus to the city centre. We were told to wait for bus #17 so we waited for quite awhile (at least 20-30 minutes) and it finally came. We paid 2 ringgit each ($0.65) and got on the packed bus for the 20-minute trip into town. Instantly, I loved all of the colours of the buildings – it had such a European vibe to it and I didn’t feel like I was in Asia anymore. Melaka was first found by a Sumatran prince back in the late 1300s, when it was named Malaka. The Portuguese took over the city in the 1500s and called it Malaca. Then the Dutch took over in the 1600s and called it Malakka or Malacka. Then the British took over in the 1700s and called it Malacca. This is why there are still a few spellings of the city. It’s really interesting seeing how each country has influenced the city, and how there are still Dutch and Portuguese areas. The walk to our hostel (Welcome Guesthouse) was only about ten minutes away and when we got there, we were greeted by a friendly lady from Turkey who was volunteering at the guesthouse. The place obviously didn’t have hostel vibes since it was a guesthouse, but it was kind of nice to be somewhere quiet. Plus it was only 18 ringgit per night ($5.88), so it was a steal! Plus it included breakfast (which was just toast and coffee, but still amazing)! However, the beds were extremely creaky (as in I couldn’t even lift my arm without it making a noise), and our window was facing a restaurant that was for some reason open from 5pm-5am, so we constantly heard running water and the clanging of pots and pans. We chatted for at least an hour and then decided to head to Jonker Street, where Melaka has its weekend night market. It was so crowded when we got there! We had to get into the stream of people and then were basically pushed the whole way through, not having much space to stop and look at anything. We stopped to try Popiah, which is a fresh spring roll that is cut up to look like sushi. I think it’s normally made with pork but this one was vegetarian. It cost us 2 ringgit each (65 cents) so we didn’t lose much of our money, as both of us were expecting to have salmon or something of flavour inside. We walked through the market but I was having a really hard time deciding what I wanted to eat. I finally decided to just get three skewers of satay (2 chicken and 1 pork) for 11 ringgit ($3.59) and then we each got a mango shake for 5 ringgit ($1.63).

We found a place to sit down and people-watch while enjoying our mango shakes, and then headed back to the guesthouse. That night, Ros woke me up at about 3am and said that I was snoring really loud, which surprised me! I’m hoping that she’s not just the first person who’s actually told me.. however, when she woke me up, my nose was completely plugged so I hope I’m not coming down with something. She said that once she woke me up, I didn’t snore anymore so that’s good!

On Sunday morning, we got up and ready for the day. Ros was changing hostels because she’d be staying in Melaka for the entire week and was trying to find somewhere she liked (or trying to get away from my snoring!). I had to get my laundry done so I packed up my stuff and walked ten minutes to the nearest laundromat. It cost me 3 ringgit for a wash, 1.50 ringgit for laundry detergent, and 4 ringgit for a dry, so I paid $2.78 total. Plus it was a lot faster than what I was expecting – a half hour for the wash and 45 minutes for the dry, so I didn’t have to spend my entire day sitting in the laundromat – I just FaceTimed with my parents and the time went by faster. I dropped my stuff off at the hostel and then I met back up with Ros at about 2pm. We stopped at Chop Chung Wah for lunch because they’re known for their chicken and rice balls, which were actually quite good!

The rice balls are boiled in broth so it adds a lot of extra flavour. Ros and I shared a dish so it only cost us 5 ringgit each ($1.63). We then explored the city – went across the river to check out the bright pink buildings of city hall, Christ Church, and the Clock Tower.

It was another city of bright colours and charm! We walked to St. Paul’s Church, went to Porta de Santiago (a ruined fortress), and then walked through the MegaMall, which literally had every store – stores common in Australia, stores common in North America, and stores common in Europe – it seemed so weird!

I even noticed that there was an A&W so I vowed that I’d try some A&W before I left Malaysia. After walking around for a few hours, we decided to part ways for a bit so that we could relax at our hostels before meeting up for dinner. On my way back to my hostel, I happened to walk by a big building that said “MAMEE” and had a familiar blue monster standing in front of it, taking pictures with kids. I instantly recognised it as the dry noodle snack that I would always have at my friend’s house when I was little. I’d beg my mom to buy me some but she said that they were too expensive, and I remember her buying them once and I was so happy! I had absolutely no idea that they originated from Malaysia, and specifically from this small city! I decided to return tomorrow, and continued back to the hostel. I relaxed for a couple of hours and then met back up with Ros and her friend at about 8pm. We decided to have dinner at her hostel (La Vie en Rose) since the hostel owner is Lebanese and he cooks seriously amazing food – the flavour was some of the best that I’ve had in Malaysia, even if it wasn’t Malaysian food. We shared baba ganoush with pita, and then I ordered a Philadelphia Beef wrap, which was so good! I paid 13.50 ringgit ($4.41). The three of us then walked through the night market for a bit, which was much quieter since it was Sunday and then we finished the night by getting coconut shakes for 4 ringgit ($1.31) and sitting by the fountain across the river.

On Monday morning, I got up and FaceTimed my family before going downstairs for breakfast. I was originally just planning on spending two nights in Melaka, but I decided to stay for one more night so I still had another full day. A lot of the main restaurants close by 5pm and some stop serving main dishes by 1pm, so I found it really difficult figuring out where to go for dinner while I was there. I wanted to try out so many foods but a lot of the restaurants were closed on Monday, or would close before dinner. I went to East & West Rendez-vous, which is known for their Nyonya Chang, which is a part-blue dumpling filled with minced pork and sticky rice. I also had wanted to try one of the main desserts there called Cendol, which is an iced dessert with green rice flour jelly, coconut milk, palm sugar, and other various toppings. However, when they got there, I got a, “What do you want?” as an entire family was deep in conversation sitting at one of the tables. I asked if they had a menu and she said that all she had left were the dumplings, so I said that I’d get one. She grabbed a parcel wrapped in a banana leaf off of the table, unwrapped it, and set it on a plate for me.

Therefore, it wasn’t too warm when I ate it but it wasn’t too bad – it was somewhat sweet but then salty at the same time. It was kind of weird because as I was eating it, the family brought out all of this food from the kitchen and then started eating their lunch beside me. A guy came in just as I was finishing and got the same, “What do you want?” and got a dumpling as well. I paid my 7 ringgit ($2.29) and continued on my way, determined to find some Cendol. I walked along the river and found a little place across from the clock tower called Cendol Jam Besar. I got their ABC Cendol, which comes with shaved ice, and finally got to give it a try. Along with the ice cream and candy sprinkles added to it, it also had red beans and sweet corn.

It was definitely different! I don’t know if I liked it or not – I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to find some again but I might not turn it down either. There was just so much going on in the bowl and I didn’t know what half of it was! I paid 5 ringgit ($1.63) and then walked to the Mamee Museum. I went into the cafe first, since it was just after 2pm. I decided to try the curry laksa made with their Mamee noodles and get a grape pop to go with it – I felt like a kid again!

The curry laksa was so good – much better than the laksa that I tried in Penang (but I made sure to check if it was fishy or not first). It was quite spicy though! My meal cost me 13 ringgit ($4.24) so I paid and then checked out the museum, which was free (and I was the only person in it because they had it gated off so that no one could enter). It was a nice museum and had potential but I was confused as to why they weren’t regularly letting people in. I thought that I couldn’t go in and when I was staring at it, one of the staff members asked if I wanted to go inside and opened the gate for me.

It was interesting reading about the history and seeing how the products had changed over the years. I then explored the shops down Jonker Street and along the river before heading back to relax at the guesthouse for a couple of hours.

At about 7pm, I decided to go for dinner at a restaurant on the riverside called Wild Coriander. I got the Nasi Lemak, which is a combination of food including curry chicken, veggies, fried anchovies, and an egg, served on a banana leaf. The view beside the river was so nice and I was able to watch the colours of the sky change for the duration of my dinner.

It was a very nice way to spend my last night in Melaka. Plus the food was delicious! It looked like so much food but I somehow got through it all, and didn’t even feel completely full afterwards. My meal with a drink cost me 22 ringgit ($7.18) and for the amount of food I had, it was worth it! However, something didn’t agree with my stomach (which sometimes happens when I have curries, but it would be nice to know what the specific ingredient is so I could avoid it!). Anyway, after dinner, I headed back to the guesthouse to relax for the rest of the night, after taking a quick walk by the rover.

On Tuesday morning, I packed up all of my stuff and had a few pieces of toast before meeting up with Ros for coffee before I headed back to Kuala Lumpur. We went to a place called The Stolen Cup, which was a cute American-like cafe with lots of character. The coffee was a bit more expensive at 10 ringgit ($3.26), but it was nice to have some barista-made coffee rather than the instant coffee that I’ve usually been drinking. I stayed for just over an hour and then headed back across the river to wait for the bus in front of the clock tower. Melaka is a sweet city that has its own uniqueness compared to any of the other cities that I’ve been to in Malaysia! Love always

Taman Negara (Jan 24-26): Rainforest, Leeches, and a Python

My trip to Taman Negara was longer than what I expected, but it was an experience in itself! I had to pay 65 ringgit ($21.22AUD) for what I thought would just be a shuttle from my hostel in Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands to the main town of Taman Negara called Kuala Tahan. However, I was in for a surprise… The 13-passenger van picked me up at my hostel at around 8:15 and there were five other people there. We dropped three people off in a small town, stopped for a 15-minute snack/bathroom break (squat toilet, of course!), and arrived in the town of Jerantut at around 11:45am. There, three of us had to fill in our forms to get a permit to enter the park. The park entrance was only 1 ringgit (30 cents), and if we wanted to take pictures, we had to pay 5 ringgit ($1.60). The man said that they’ve kept the park admission fee the same since they opened the park to the public, but it obviously isn’t enough to wholly contribute to the upkeep of the park, so they asked that we keep everything clean. We were then brought to a desk, where a guy spent about ten minutes trying to sell different tours to us at a “discount price,” and if we didn’t make the decision at that very second and get 10% off, we’d have to pay full price when we get there. It was to the point where it was just uncomfortable, where I said no multiple times, and he continued with, “Well, if you’re not taking any tours, then why are you going?” I’ve already spent so much money on tours and I’ve read that hikes could be done in the Taman Negara without a guide, so I figured I would save my money this time. Anyway, he said we had until 12:30pm before the next bus would come pick us up. I decided to get lunch, which was just fried noodles for 5 ringgit ($1.63), and I tried to eat it as fast as I could before the bus came. We then boarded another 13-passenger van (which was full this time) and made our way back the way that we came but this time, stopped about 30-45 minutes later at a ferry pier. We were sat down and talked to about the park, and told how it was the oldest rainforest in the world (more than 130 million years old) because it was untouched by the ice age, and told what to do if we got lost. We had to wait for them to get our permits ready, which we would have to carry with us in the park at all times. At about 1:30pm, we were led to a dock, which was only accessible by literally walking across a wooden board that wasn’t more than a foot in width, and hoping that we (along with any of our stuff) didn’t fall off into the water. Some people brought huge suitcases so it was interesting watching them try to get their stuff across. We had to board an extremely long canoe-like boat and were seated two by two. They stacked all of our luggage in a massive pile in the front and I have to say that I was quite impressed that nothing rolled off during the trip. The boatride was cool because we were level with the water and it was so relaxing, I kept nearly falling asleep. We saw some water buffalo on the way but other than that, it was just a bunch of green for two and a half hours.

We arrived at Kuala Tahan right before 4pm to a dock on the side of a floating restaurant, and then they wanted us to stand in line and tell them where we were going so that we could get suggestions and/or transport to our accommodation. I couldn’t be bothered waiting in line so I made my way to my hostel, which was up a huge hill but was literally less than 300 metres from the dock. Kuala Tahan is a pretty small area, which probably has less than ten restaurants and about two convenience stores so you can pretty much cover the entire thing in less than ten minutes. I was staying at Wild Lodge in a 6-person mixed dorm (with a riverside view) for 26 ringgit per night ($8.60) and while I was unpacking my stuff, I was greeted by Thom, a Dutch guy, who basically introduced me to everyone else.

In my room, there was another Canadian girl (finally!) named Alana. She’s from Vancouver but she’s been living in the UK for the past ten years. Another main person who I met was Ros, who’s from the UK, has been travelling for nearly six months, and was planning to move to Melbourne next. I visited with people for a few hours and then we finally decided to go for dinner, which I was extremely happy about since I was starving! Let me just say that the food in Kuala Tahan is known for not being great, so I knew not to have high expectations. We went to a place that I believe was called Julie’s Hostel and I decided to get chicken curry with a coke. Afterwards, we all treated ourselves to ice cream and I tested out a Kit-Kat Drumstick, which was so good! We all went to bed, and I completely passed out since I hadn’t had much sleep during the past two nights.

On Friday morning, I woke up and most of the group had left to Cameron Highlands. The only people remaining were Thom, Ros, Alana, and I. We took advantage of the free coffee and tea from the hostel, and then the four of us went for breakfast at the same place that we had had dinner at the night before. This time, I had a tomato omelette with an iced coffee for 8.50 ringgit ($2.78). We then decided to go on a hike together. We went online and decided to do a 2.1-km hike to a cave called Telinga Cave. We had to pay 1 ringgit each (30 cents) to get a boat across the river to the start of the trail, and then we went on our way at about 12pm.

I’ve been hiking plenty of times before, but this was a proper proper hike. There usually wasn’t a distinct trail and sometimes, we didn’t even know which way to go (thank goodness for the app ‘maps.me’ so that we could make sure we were on the right track!). We had to push aside many (prickly!) branches, step over and under logs, and climb up and down steep hills.

Our first sign to turn back probably should have been the humongous snake that us three girls saw (it went away so fast that Thom missed it). I happened to hear something in the leaves, looked over, and about one metre away from Alana, I saw the body of a snake about 4-5 inches in diameter. I warned everyone else, and Ros and Alana were luckily able to see it before it “ran” off. I’m surprised how calm I was, but the girls seemed more shaken by it (I guess I’ve already had an experience of nearly stepping on a snake before). Our second sign to turn back should have been the leeches that attempted to dine on us three girls. All of a sudden, I heard Alana say that two leeches were on her ankles so Ros checked her ankles and had one, and then I checked my ankles and had one as well! Luckily, the one on me hadn’t latched on (likely due to my super toxic 80% deet that I had on!) and when I touched it, it wiggled onto my sock and I brushed it off. It actually surprises me how many people don’t know NOT to pull leeches off because they release an anti-coagulant that won’t allow your skin to form a scab (and therefore you keep bleeding, and usually bruise and/or scar). Maybe it’s cause I grew up playing in a lake that had leeches so my mom always told me not to pick them off. Unfortunately, Alana didn’t know this information so when she picked off the two leeches, her feet wouldn’t stop bleeding. We all stopped walking and decided whether we wanted to keep going, and for some reason, no one said to stop so on we went. We got to a huge group of (what we thought were) ants and some had huge pinchers!

If we stood quietly, all we could hear was them munching away. This would have been our third sign to turn back. We had to walk all the way around them since nobody wanted to walk through them. Then a few minutes later, Alana got a third leech. When she pulled back her shoe to look at her first bites, the top of her shoe was covered in blood – it wouldn’t stop! Luckily, nearby was the first written sign that we saw so we went to look at it and we found out that we had only done 800 metres during the past hour. We all agreed to turn around. I think we would have been alright if we did the 2.1km and there was a boat to take us back, but we weren’t sure if there would be a boat there and we didn’t want to risk it. Plus the leeches were stressing everyone out. I don’t think anyone was particularly enjoying themselves! Ros pointed out the leeches to me on the way back – they stick their heads out of the dirt and wiggle upwards back and forth, waiting to hop onto someone – it’s so gross! I think all of us were happy to finally get back out.

We paid 1 ringgit each to get back to the other side of the river and then went back to the hostel. I was nervous to take off my socks because I was scared that I’d find a leech underneath but luckily, I left the forest unharmed (and was the only one!). It was crazy watching Alana wipe off the blood and then less than 30 seconds later, her foot would start dripping again. Ros, Thom, and I decided to go for lunch to one of the floating restaurants called Mawar Floating Restaurant. We were the only table there by the time we ordered (just after 2pm) and decided to start by sharing some spring rolls. We each took a bite but they were hot on the outside and cold on the inside so Ros told the server. However, they just reheated the ones that we gave them and so we got them back with bites – they definitely do things differently in Asia! We then sat and talked for quite awhile and all of a sudden, the lady comes with the Tom yum soups that we all ordered and apologised – she had forgotten about us! The whole family had been sitting there watching TV and eating their own meals and then she remembered our main dishes. I didn’t actually think that we had been waiting too long, maybe because we were just so deep in conversation. The soup wasn’t too bad but didn’t really taste like a typical Tom yum. I also got an iced tea to go with my meal, which was probably the best part.

The paying process was a whole other story, which seemed to be way more complicated than it needed to be. My full meal ended up being 12 ringgit ($3.92). That afternoon, I visited with Alana and we did some research about what we saw. We found out that there’s only one type of python in the forest called a reticulated python, which is the longest snake in the world and the third heaviest! Apparently they’re really rare to see so I guess we were…. lucky? We also found out that the ants we saw were actually termites, so that explains why they were so noisy. We went for ice cream, and chatted with some new arrivals, such as Katie who came from London (literally everyone I meet is Dutch or British). That evening, Thom wanted to go on the night hike tour but I think after our day hike experience, none of us girls were too keen to go. The four of us girls went for a late dinner to a restaurant right by the hostel, where Ros and I split a burger (which they covered in sweet chili sauce) and some more springrolls. The meal cost me another 12 ringgit ($3.92). I was having a difficult time trying to decide if I should stay for another day because I wasn’t sure what I would do the following day other than relax (which wouldn’t be so bad). Alana and Ros were planning to head back towards Kuala Lumpur, and Ros was planning to continue to Melaka, which would be my next stop. I finally decided to join them since I didn’t want to figure out the buses on my own and because our bus left at 10am the next morning, we agreed to meet at 9am for breakfast.

On Saturday morning, I got up at 8:30, packed up my stuff, and Ros, Alana, and I had coffee at the hostel and then went for breakfast to the same place that we had went to for dinner the night before. This time, I decided to have a banana pancake, which cost me 5 ringgit ($1.63). We then took all of our stuff and walked to the end of the street to a retro, bright blue bus, which would take us to our next stop. Taman Negara was another beautiful place, which perhaps I preferred to enjoy at a distance, from the deck at our hostel 🙂 Next time, I’ll just have to come fully prepared with leech socks! Love always

Cameron Highlands (Jan 22-24): A Mossy Forest, Tea Plantations, and a Cool Climate

The trip to Cameron Highlands was a tough one for me, mostly due to the fact that I don’t know how to control my liquids before long bus/train trips (you’d think I would learn by now…). Even though the main Cameron Highlands town (Tanah Rata) is just under 90km from Ipoh, it still takes about two hours to get there, and that completely depends on the traffic. Add in the twisty, bumpy roads and you’re in for a problem if you have a full bladder. We left Ipoh at 3pm after I paid 20 ringgit for my ticket ($6.53AUD), didn’t arrive until after 5pm, and I don’t think I’ve ever had to use the bathroom so bad in my life! I ran to the toilet in the bus terminal, only to find that it was chained and locked up! I ran across the street into the nearest shop (a phone store) and asked where the nearest bathroom was. They redirected me across the street and I replied that it was closed. The mom said something to her boy and he took me into the back of the shop and let me use their toilet (thank goodness!). I then walked to my hostel, which was called Father’s Guest House. The reason I chose this hostel was because I really wanted to do a full-day tour of Cameron Highlands (as opposed to a half-day tour), but the majority of the tour companies that I contacted weren’t offering full-day tours at that time. The hostel said that I was the only person to express interest in a full-day tour and told me to ask again once I got there. However, the stress of that was too much for me to handle since I only had one full day in Cameron Highlands, so I kept researching and found a tour with Eco Cameron for a full day (8 hours) and it cost me 90 ringgit ($29.38). Tanah Rata is a cute, little town that reminds me of a mountain resort like Banff or Jasper. I found my hostel, which was more of a huge house (very lovely), and I stayed in a 10-bed mixed dorm for 19.98 ringgit per night ($6.78). The only other person in my room was a guy from New Jersey named Ben (who had been travelling for the past five years). Ben and I went for dinner at an Indian Restaurant called Kumar Restaurant, where I got a massive dish of tandoori chicken. Afterwards, we went back to the hostel so that he could work on his photography and I could work on my blog.

The next morning (Wednesday), I was meant to be picked up by my tour at 8:15am so I got up at 7 and tried to find a nearby restaurant called Yong Teng Cafe because they’re known for their pancakes. The restaurant is run by an old couple (probably in their 70s) and the lady is mute, so a lot of pointing and hand signals were needed in order to get information across. I got a banana pancake with coffee, and they were both so good! Plus they only cost me 8 ringgit ($2.61)!

I went back to my hostel and waited for the Range Rover to come pick me up. The only other people on my tour were a Dutch couple (likely in their 60s) and a girl from the United States who was teaching in South Korea (and she was only doing the half-day tour). We started by driving to the Mossy Forest, which was all the way up to an altitude of about 2000 metres. I’ve seen moss before, but nothing like this! Plus it was such a foggy morning so it added a mysteriousness to the forest.

The guide pointed out different plants, such as the carnivorous pitcher plants, which fill up with water and then trap insects to consume. He also showed us berries to eat, citronella leaves, and other medicinal plants for treating wounds or helping with digestion. He took the smallest piece of moss, rolled it up into a ball and then squeezed it, and the amount of water that came out was amazing! He said that the amount of time it takes for plants to grow there is extremely long because of the high altitude. If we looked at a tree in the Mossy Forest and then looked at the same sized tree in the rainforest, it would only take 20 years for it to get to that size in the rainforest whereas in the Mossy Forest, it would take between 200-300 years. The path through the Mossy Forest was only about 20 minutes long but we kept running into other tour groups so it got quite crowded. After that, we walked up another 32 metres to the top of Mount Brinchang, which normally gives a 360 degree view of the entire area but since it was so foggy, we literally couldn’t see anything.

We walked back to the Range Rover and drove to the tea plantations, which Cameron Highlands is known for. One of the most well-known teas is BOH Plantations, which was started by a British man in 1929, and is continued to be run by his Granddaughter. We were given an hour to explore the BOH Plantations – 15 minutes for a tour through the factory and 45 minutes to do as we pleased. I walked around for a bit and then I went to the cafe and I’m not kidding, I had the best iced tea I’ve ever had in my life! I basically grew up on iced tea and even the Lipton iced tea doesn’t do it for me here, but this was amazing! I was so tempted to buy some, but I didn’t want to have to carry it around for the next three months.

After the tea plantation, we dropped off the girl who was only doing the half day tour and then we went to the Butterfly Farm, where we were able to see many different species of butterflies. I saw a massive butterfly and even got to hold it, it was beautiful!

The guide said that they only have a lifespan of two weeks, which is a shame. The Butterfly Farm also had many other insects and lizards, as well as some frogs, hedgehogs, and many flowers.

After we finished wandering around, the guide took us to a local restaurant (Restoran Yao Yat) for lunch, where I had chicken with mushroom sauce and rice, as well as a strawberry white coffee (I was so intrigued, and it actually wasn’t too bad!), which cost me 11.50 ringgit ($3.75). We then went to Raaju’s Hill Strawberry Farm, where I treated myself to a strawberry milkshake for 8 ringgit ($2.61).

It wasn’t the best strawberry milkshake I’ve had in my life, but it was probably the freshest! After the strawberry farm, we got about a half hour to walk through the local market and then we made a quick stop at Cactus Point, which was (as its name suggests) a shop that sells cacti as well as other plants.

We went to the local museum, which went through the history of Cameron Highlands and had a bunch of antique items throughout the museum.

Our last stop was the Sam Poh Buddhist Temple, which was very quiet and still wasn’t as nice as some of the other temples I’ve seen.

By the time I got to my hostel, I was completely exhausted! There was another guy who had moved into the room named Sam and he was on vacation from the Netherlands. We actually talked for quite awhile – it was another one of those moments where we just clicked so the conversation came naturally. I had the coldest shower in awhile – mind you, all of my showers in Malaysia have been pretty cold but I normally welcome them since I’m coming from 30+ degree weather. However, the Highlands are naturally a lot colder (around 19 degrees) because of the high altitude so it was a lot more difficult to get into a cold shower! When I got back into the room and complained about my shower, Sam asked if I had flipped the switch in the hallway before my shower (which controls the water heater). What?! NO! Why hadn’t anyone told me this before?! Maybe that’s why my showers have always been so cold… Sam and I went to get dinner and stopped at a place to have a couple skewers of satay before having an actual meal. There, we ran into Ben so he joined us for dinner. We went to another Indian Restaurant called Curry House, where I got Chana Masala and naan bread for 19 ringgit ($6.20). We then went to a bar called Jungle Bar and each had a beer, then played some games before going back to the hostel.

On Thursday morning, I had to catch a bus to Taman Negara at 8am so I got up at 7 again, and Sam, Ben, and I went for breakfast at 7:30 before we all had to part ways. We went to another Indian place, where I just had roti and cheese with a curry sauce for 4.50 ringgit ($1.47). I then went back to the hostel and waited for my bus to come pick me up. Cameron Highlands is another area that is completely different from anything else, and I really enjoyed my time there even if it was short. I met some more great people and saw some more amazing things! Love always

Ipoh (Jan 20-22): Thaipusam Celebrations in a Charming City with Friendly Locals

My transport to Ipoh (pronounced EE-poe) didn’t go as smoothly as I was hoping. In Koh Lipe, I checked into my 11am ferry at 9:45am, had to give them my passport again, and was given a card with a number. Almost immediately after that, they started transferring us into the longtail boats to take us the transport area. There were way more of us this time (about 150 people) and there were only two longtail boats, so they had to keep doing trips back and forth from the beach. Luckily, I got on the second boat so I had to wait at the transport area for the next 45 minutes until the ferry arrived. Once the ferry came, we had to wait for everyone to get off of the ferry and then they called out numbers one by one for people to board the boat – it was so efficient! My number was in the 120’s so I still had to wait a bit to get on. Just after 11, we started the 90-minute journey back to Malaysia. I lost an hour this time, so by the time we all got off the boat in Langkawi, it was about 2pm. I went to the ticket office across the street to find out how I could get to Ipoh, but the next ferry leaving from Langkawi wasn’t until 4pm and they said I would miss the last bus to Ipoh (I think what happens with these ticket counters is they only tell you how to get there from THEIR company, so even if there are buses available with other companies, they don’t tell you about them). I decided to still catch the 4pm ferry anyway, so I bought a ticket to Kuala Kedah for 23 ringgit ($7.51AUD). I went to KFC for lunch since it was next door, and then went back to the ferry terminal at 3:30pm. I couldn’t understand any of the announcements on the intercom so every time people started rushing to a ferry, I’d go up to a security guard and ask if it was my turn. Finally, it was my turn to board so I found my seat for the 1 hour-45 minute ride to Kuala Kedah. I arrived just before 6pm and I knew that there’d be a train leaving for Ipoh at 6:45 so I requested a Grab to take me to the train station in Alor Setar, which cost 14 ringgit ($4.57) and took nearly a half hour. The Grab driver seemed very curious and kept asking me so many questions, to the point where it felt weird. When we got to the train station, the traffic was pretty backed up so I said I’d just get out and walk the rest of the way because I only had about 20 minutes left. I got to the ticket counter, asked for a ticket to Ipoh, and he said that the train was full and I’d have to take a bus. I looked on my map and saw that the bus station was less than a ten-minute walk away so I decided to walk, but as I left the station, I heard someone yell out, “Miss!” and my Grab driver was still there. I told him that I needed to get to the bus station so he told me to get into the car but then drove past the station on my map. “Are you going to the bus station?” “Yes, it’s about five minutes away.” Turns out there was another bus station so I was lucky that I didn’t end up walking all the way to the other one. When we got there, I asked how much I owed him and he said it was fine and then asked if I wanted him to assist me inside, and I said I was okay. Someone was at the entrance of the bus station and asked where I was going, and then he directed me to a counter that he was running. He said that the next bus wasn’t until 8pm and it would take four hours, meaning I wouldn’t arrive in Ipoh until after midnight. There were only four seats left! I asked him to wait and I contacted my hostel to see if it would be okay and they said that they’d give me a code to enter the hostel and then I could pay/check-in the next morning, which was amazing of them! So I went ahead with buying the bus ticket for 28 ringgit ($9.14). Since I had over an hour to kill, I decided to get dinner but there wasn’t much in the station. The bus station actually just had a sketchy/creepy vibe to it, especially as it approached night time. There were a couple of restaurants across the street so I walked over and heard, “Miss!” again. I looked over and the Grab driver was sitting at a table with two other guys. They were all drivers (that day), waiting for their next ride request. I sat with them, but the other two guys didn’t seem to speak English and the whole dinner felt somewhat uncomfortable. They didn’t have a menu so I ended up ordering an iced tea and some fried rice with the help of the Grab driver. He said that him and his friends all work different jobs normally but since it was a public holiday, they decided to be Grab drivers to get extra money. However, he had only gotten five drive requests during the entire day and it was already 7pm (he said he’d wait until 10pm). I think he had said he made less than 60 ringgit that day ($20), which was pretty crazy to me. Anyway, I left at 7:30, paid 6 ringgit for my meal ($1.96), and sat in the bus station to wait for my bus. I waited until 8pm, then 8:30, and then 9pm before the bus finally came. I got to my seat at the very back of the bus and relaxed for the next four hours, as I was exhausted. However at about midnight, the bus started making funny noises so the bus driver pulled over for about 10-15 minutes to fix it. Finally just before 1am, we arrived at the Ipoh bus station. I then had to take a Grab to my hostel, which took about 20 minutes and cost 16 ringgit ($5.22). I was staying in Vloft Backpackers and as soon as you entered, you were already in my bedroom – a 12-bed dorm. However, it only cost 24 ringgit ($8) per night so it was pretty cheap! I used the code to get into the hostel, got ready for bed, found my bed in the dark, and passed out.

On Monday, it was Thaipusam – a Hindu-celebrated holiday to honour Lord Murgan (the god of war) for prayers that had been answered during the past year. The celebration starts early in the morning (sometimes at 5am), when devotees prepare for their long walk to an important temple. There are many people who go through face piercings or hooks pierced into their skin, and some people drag kavadis (burdens) attached to the hooks behind them for the duration of the walk. Apparently, it’s quite a spectacle and it’s not too easy on the stomach for people who aren’t used to seeing it. I decided to forego this part of the day, as I’m not too great with that kind of stuff and I didn’t want to get up at 5 after going to bed past 1:30. I got up at about 9:30, got ready for the day, and started my food tour. I read that Ipoh (along with Penang) has some of the best food in Malaysia and since I wasn’t too wowed by the food in Penang, I did some research to find good food in Ipoh. I was planning to go to a coffee shop for breakfast and then catch the last of the Thaipusam walk before it finished at noon so I started walking towards Nam Heong White Coffee to try their coffee. On my walk, it was too easy to be distracted by all of the buildings around me. Some were extremely colourful, some were so run down, but each one had its own charm and beauty that was easy to appreciate. I walked down a street with gorgeous street art and then I came across a beautiful mosque that had the exact same white and blue colours that you’d see on the buildings in Santorini.

I walked to the gate to get some photos and then the caretaker asked if I’d like to come in. He led me into the office, where there was a man who voluntarily gave tours of the mosque. First, he gave me some clothes to wear because I had to be fully covered (head included) and then he walked me around the mosque. After the quick tour, we went back into the office and he explained more about Islam and the Muslim faith. He even got me to read some scriptures and take some brochures, so I got the sense that I was in some type of conversion situation. He told me why women have to have their heads covered and showed me the scripture (in the bible as well) that says that if a woman shows her hair, it should be shaved off and if it won’t be shaved then it should be covered. It was interesting and I didn’t realise how many similarities there were between the Muslim and Christian faith. Anyway, after about an hour, I said I should get going and he offered me some roti that his daughter had made.

I continued my walk to the coffee shop and it was completely packed! I had to join a table and then go to order what I wanted. I got a sesame ball, an egg tart, some prawn dumplings, and then asked the salesman what his favourite thing was, which was a deep-fried prawn wonton so I got one of those as well. All that with a delicious iced coffee cost me 10.80 ringgit ($3.53)!

I stayed for awhile and was joined by an older couple from Malaysia who were in Ipoh for the weekend. They were shocked that I was travelling alone (as was everyone I talked to there). I walked around for the rest of the afternoon and checked out some of the buildings and walked down Little India. There were tons of stalls set up for Thaipusam, giving food to everyone who had finished their long walk. I was offered juice a few times, which I accepted, and felt somewhat honoured that they included me in their festivities, even if it was in a small way.

Ipoh is filled with such friendly people! I’ve honestly never talked to so many locals in one place than I have in Ipoh. Everyone was so curious about where I was from, why I was there, and whether I liked it. With that being said, there were also some sketchier areas, where it felt uncomfortable walking down a street because I could feel like I was constantly being stared at. However, it was still very easy for me to fall in love with Ipoh’s charm and friendly locals, and I wanted to stay longer. I 100% preferred it over Penang! That afternoon, I needed to exchange money since I still mostly had Thai Baht and needed money to pay for my hostel. It was quite difficult finding anything because since it was a public holiday, pretty much everything was closed. I eventually found a currency exchange place to buy some ringgit and then went back to the hostel so I could officially check in. During mid-afternoon, I decided to get a snack so I went to Funny Mountain Soya Bean, where I tried Tau Foo Fah, which is soft tofu covered in a sugary sauce. The tofu is so smooth, it just glides down your throat. I also got their soy drink – I’m not sure what was in it but it seemed to be similar to tapioca, and it was also quite good.

For those two items, it cost me 5.50 ringgit ($1.80). I then found an electronics store and went to buy a phone cable since mine would only work if I bent it a certain way, so that set me back 8 ringgit ($2.61). I stopped at Sin Eng Heong, which is a bakery, and I tried a Kaya Kok (Kaya puff), which is a pastry with a coconut flavour inside.

It only cost me 1 ringgit (33 cents)! I then decided to walk towards Kallumalai Temple, which was about 40 minutes away but had stalls along most of the street for Thaipusam.

Once I got to the temple, I went into the main area but I didn’t go into the actual temple, as there was a huge lineup of people waiting to pray and I didn’t want to do anything disrespectful. However, I did get lots of smiles from people and nods, which for me translated into a “Thank you for taking part.” A few people came up to me and asked where I was from and if this was my first Indian festival. One man gave me his phone number just in case I needed anything, and then asked if I would take a picture with his daughters, who had some pretty dresses on. Everyone looked so colourful and some of the dresses were absolutely gorgeous!

Many people were carrying plates of coconuts and oranges with incense to offer in the temple. There was also an area that had peacocks and another area that offered head-shaving. One of the guys noticed me watching and asked if I’d like to get my head shaved and I declined while we both laughed.

I made my way back to the hostel because it seemed like it was going to rain, but a proper rainfall never came. That evening, I went to Restoran Tuck Kee, which was on my list of places to go but I was confused when I saw Sun Tuck Kee two doors down from the original. I found a table and ordered what they’re most known for: Wat Tan Hor Fun, which is fried flat noodles served in a thick egg gravy with vegetables, prawns and meat.

It looks very different, but it’s probably one of the best meals that I’ve had in Malaysia! The combination of all the flavours work so well together, and the egg gravy is so smooth and tasty. The meal with a coke cost me 9 ringgit ($2.94). I walked down to the nearby night market, which wasn’t that great, spent some time at a Chinese New Year celebration, and then went back to the hostel.

On Tuesday morning, I got up and packed up my stuff (which I left at the hostel), and I had until 3pm to enjoy my last few hours in Ipoh. I walked to the Old Town and stopped at Thean Chun restaurant to order Kai See Hor Fun, which is kind of like a chicken noodle soup with prawns and vegetables added to it. The lady also said to get bean sprouts, and then I asked for a cold coffee. “Cold coffee not good.” Okay then, hot coffee it was! I also ordered a Caramel Egg Custard, all for 11.10 ringgit ($3.62).

Everything was really tasty, although I don’t think the lady liked my way of eating each thing separately because she came up to my table and told me to eat the beansprouts while I was eating the Kai See Hor Fun. After my breakfast, I walked about ten minutes to the bus station because I wanted to check out one of the temples outside of the city called Sam Poh Tong Temple. I sat and waited for bus #66 and then paid 1.50 ringgit ($0.49) for the bus ride. I got off and walked down a street with two other temples leading to the Sam Poh Tong Temple. The temple was extremely quiet and there were “Do Not Enter” signs on both entrances, along with some beggars sitting in the entrance. I walked through anyway, and the zen garden in front of the temple was absolutely gorgeous!

I had trouble figuring out how the temple worked though, as hardly anyone was there. The temple was poorly maintained and I didn’t really see why it was one of the top attractions in Ipoh. There was a tortoise pond behind the temple with a fountain that was no longer running.

I had read that you could climb up to see a nice view of Ipoh, but I couldn’t figure out where it would be because there weren’t any signs around and the only place that might have led to the viewpoint was surrounded by monkeys who had already stolen some peoples’ food. Obviously, there was no way that I’d be going that way, even though I didn’t have any food with me. My new-found fear of monkeys might now deter me from doing many things in Asia, unfortunately. After my short time there, I decided to not go to the other temple, which was further away (Kek Look Tong Temple) and instead requested a Grab to go back into the city, which only cost 8 ringgit ($2.61). I walked around for a bit, decided to buy some more phone cords since they were so cheap and my new one was bound to stop working at some point in the next three months. They had a special “Buy 2 Get 1 Free” deal, so I got three more cords for 16 ringgit ($5.22). I then went to buy some Claritin since I had been using it to lessen the itchiness from my nail polish reaction (see last blog post) and was so impressed to find out that they were 1 ringgit 30 per pill. I bought ten pills for 13 ringgit ($4.24), which is cheaper than anywhere I would find in Canada or Australia. I went to the hostel to get my stuff, took a Grab to the bus station for 13 ringgit ($4.24), and arrived at about 2:20. Then I bought a ticket to Cameron Highlands for 20 ringgit ($6.53), picked up some roti with curry and an iced tea for 7 ringgit ($2.29), and got on my bus for 3pm.

I really loved Ipoh and I don’t understand why it’s usually skipped over by travellers. I only saw about three tourists while I was walking around, but maybe that’s why I felt so welcomed by the friendly locals. The buildings and street art are beautiful, and the food is some of the best that I’ve had in Malaysia! Love always

Koh Lipe (Jan 14-20): Heaven on Earth

My six days in Koh Lipe went by way too fast – I was nearly in tears when I had to leave, and that hardly ever happens! The taxi driver (who must work for the hostel) picked me up at my hostel in Langkawi and we made the 20-30 minute drive to the pier. He said that I was lucky because he was about to wash his car so if the hostel owner had called him ten minutes later, he wouldn’t have been able to drive me. We got to the pier and as we walked into the building, the taxi driver said that Koh Lipe was more expensive than Langkawi, which scared me since Langkawi was already expensive as it is. We walked up to a dark office, where there were a bunch of people filling out forms and waiting. The driver asked me for my passport and told me to sit down, then came back with a number for me to wait in the queue. My number was 75, the most recent number was 53, and the ferry was to depart in about an hour. I FaceTimed with my parents while waiting and surprisingly, I was called after two numbers. The man asked if I was coming back to Langkawi and then asked why I didn’t buy my return ticket. I didn’t know how long to stay and because it was 40 dollars each way, I didn’t want to just stay for 2 or 3 nights. I said I’d stay for a week and got a return ticket for the 20th, which cost 118 ringgit ($38.52AUD). He said to be in the waiting room a half hour early (2pm), so I went downstairs and called my parents back. When I told my mom about cutting my foot, she told me to go buy antiseptic because I still hadn’t properly cleaned it, especially since everywhere in Thailand and Malaysia (even in many convenience or clothing stores) we have to walk barefoot when inside and leave our shoes outside. Just as I hung up with my parents, they made an announcement to line up for the ferry so we could go through customs. I quickly ran to the pharmacy to find antiseptic, came back, and the door was already closed with a gate set up across it! I panicked, walked up to the door (which thankfully opened), and snuck around the belted gate to go to customs (so no one actually took my ticket). After going through customs, there was a man standing there and he asked for my passport before getting onto the ferry. “Why?” I asked, hesitantly. “You’ll get it back when you’re in Koh Lipe.” I reluctantly gave him my passport, which he added to the big stack. I then walked onto the ferry, which was quite dungeon-like – very dark with glazed windows. I found a seat and relaxed for the next 90 minutes until we arrived to the transfer terminal. I had gained an hour so it was only just after 3pm when I arrived. We all got off the ferry and then had to walk across the floating dock, go down a ladder (with all of our luggage), and get into a long-tail boat, which would take us to the Koh Lipe beach (the ferry was too big and would destroy the coral if it got too close). The longtail boatride was less than five minutes and before we knew it, we were on Pattaya Beach.

Koh Lipe is known as the Maldives of Thailand… I’ve never been to the Maldives before but if it’s anything like Koh Lipe, then it’ll be one of the next places on my list. I almost don’t want to share how much I loved Koh Lipe because I don’t want it to lose its charm and become a huge tourist destination, like many of the other Thai Islands are. Its beauty is captivating, with clear waters and corals all around. There aren’t any vehicles (occasionally you’ll see a pick-up truck), but there are many motorbikes with sidecars.

They don’t allow tourists to rent the motorbikes, but you can get one as a taxi for 50 baht per person (which I never did). The island is completely walkable, and you can probably walk from one end to the other in about 45 minutes. It has three main beaches: Pattaya Beach is the most popular so I only went to it a couple of times, and it has bars and restaurants along it. Sunset Beach is a smaller beach which I never actually went to. And Sunrise Beach was the closest one to my hostel, and was much less busy so I spent most of my time there. Anyway, we had to wait in line to go through border control. Luckily, there weren’t many of us so I didn’t have to wait long but I’ve heard that people have had to wait for over an hour. Then, they checked my bag and made me pay the Tarutao National Park fee for 200 baht ($8.73), which protects the coral reef so assuming you’re on the water (which you would have had to in order to get there), you have to have a national park permit with you. I walked less than ten minutes to my hostel, Shanti Backpackers, which is run by a friendly, quiet pregnant lady who often has her 8-year-old daughter (Shanti) with her. Shanti warmed up to me quite quickly and would come give me big hugs when she saw me, and ask me questions. She doesn’t go to school, but her English is so good! The hostel was basically one big room that fit about 16 people, so we had to get used to being one big, happy family. I paid 250 baht per night ($10.91). Outside the hostel, an old man stands on the street corner all day everyday (he closes at midnight) and sells coconut pancakes. He sings the same song over and over again: “Coconut donut, 10 baht, 10 baht, Coco!” and I’m pretty sure all of us could sing it in our sleep just within one hour of being at the hostel. I got changed and made my way to the northern part of Sunrise Beach so I could get one swim in before sunset.

After sunset, I went back to the hostel and there were a bunch of people about to go for dinner, so I joined them. We went to NOT Wangcha-aon, where I got tomyum rice with a coke for 130 baht ($5.67). The food was average but definitely didn’t stand out. After dinner, I went with some of the group (a couple from Chile and a guy from Germany) to get some beer from 7-11 and sit on the beach. At about 11pm, we walked into the water and as we kicked the sand, we were able to see the plankton light up – it was pretty cool!

On Tuesday, I got up to go for breakfast and went to a restaurant that was suggested to me by the hostel owner called Coffee House Lipe. I decided to get a set breakfast for 125 baht ($5.45), which came with eggs, bacon, ham, sausage, toast, and coffee. However, it came out within two minutes of me ordering it and I knew it was because most of the items had just been sitting there, waiting for someone to eat them. The toast even came untoasted. I ate the bacon but left the sausage and ham behind, as I couldn’t bring myself to eat them. I decided to walk to the viewpoint of Koh Lipe, which only took about ten minutes. The view was really nice!

I took a different trail back down, which led to Pattaya Beach, but it was really steep and covered with leaves. There was a rope ‘fence’ along the trail, but it was falling apart so as I made my way down and started slipping on the leaves, the stakes came out of the ground when I held onto the rope. As I kicked a pile of leaves, a huge swarm of mosquitoes came out and I got eaten alive. I started to panic because I couldn’t go down fast enough and I didn’t want to climb back up, and it was really steep so I couldn’t even try to get my mosquito repellent out of my bag. I’ve never seen so many mosquitoes at one time, and I felt like I was in the Hunger Games. I finally decided to turn around and head back up to try to outrun the mosquitoes, and it worked! I got to Sunrise Beach, found a nice spot, and came up with my daily routine: lie for 15 minutes on each side, go for a swim, lie for 20 minutes on each side, go for a snack (usually a chocolate-banana pancake with fruit shake) and work on blog post, repeat steps 1-3, watch sunset, shower, go for dinner with people in the hostel. It was the perfect routine!

That evening, one of the girls suggested an Indian restaurant called Bombay Restaurant, which was a bit more expensive than usual. However, it was really good food! I got Vegetable Korma with naan and a coke for 250 baht ($10.91). We were able to watch one of the ladies make the naan right in front of us, which was neat to see.

On Wednesday morning, I went to a restaurant called Nee Papaya for breakfast. This time, I decided to stick with having Asian breakfast, as I no longer trusted English breakfasts. I had rice with chicken and vegetables, and a coffee for 120 baht ($5.24).

After that, I made my way to the southern part of Sunrise beach, where it seemed like there were private beaches for the resorts so there weren’t as many people around. The hostel owner had lent me her snorkelling gear, so I checked out some of the coral next to the beach and spent the rest of the time on the sand.

That evening, a group of us went out for dinner at Sunrise Beach Restaurant, where I got cashew chicken with rice and an iced tea for 155 baht ($6.76). After dinner, a group of us got some beer from 7-11 and sat on the beach to watch the fire dancers, which was cool to see. I was so itchy from all of the mosquito bites that I had gotten (by the way, Koh Lipe = mosquitos galore!), so I went to buy some Tiger Balm from the pharmacy. Tiger Balm is made for sore muscles and can also help people clear their sinuses if they have a cold, but I’ve met lots of tourists who use it for mosquito bites, and it works!! The heat sensation takes away the itchiness so I’d put it on all of my bites before bed.

On Thursday, I decided I should finally go do something, as I had been lazing around the past few days. I went to Thai Lady Pancake for breakfast, where I got mango sticky rice, a coffee, and a shake for 180 baht ($7.85).

I wanted to go to the larger island next to Koh Lipe so I walked to Sunrise Beach, saw a sign that said “Taxi 100 baht” and I told them I wanted to go to Koh Adang. I got on the boat and the driver asked me what time I was planning to come back. “Oh, I don’t know! How long do you think I’ll need?” But he didn’t understand what I was asking. The ride was only about ten minutes long but was very wavy and I wasn’t too dry by the time I got there.

I got off the boat and the driver went back to Koh Lipe. I found signs directing me to Chado Cliff and made my way up. The hike had three viewpoints, with the last one obviously being the best. However, this hike was one of those hikes where I kept thinking to myself, “Why did I decide to do this? Why do I do this to myself? Is it REALLY going to be worth it?” Most of the hike was in direct sunlight, in ‘feels-like’ 38 degree weather, and usually had a steep ascent. I definitely took a lot of breaks because I was nervous that I was going to get heat stroke if I pushed myself too hard. I think I made it up to the top in about 45 minutes and even though I was sweating through every pore in my body, the view made it totally worth it! I had the perfect view of Koh Lipe, along with all of the surrounding water with different shades of blue.

I sat there for quite awhile, had the place to myself for a bit, and then visited with a couple who joined me at the top before heading back down. The beaches there were pretty much empty, as I only saw about five people on the entire beach. Therefore, most people treated it as a nude beach because if the closest person to you is 300 metres away, then why not? I stayed there until the clouds covered the sky at about 4pm and then walked back towards where I was dropped off. On my way there, I noticed some of the shells moving in front of me but when I got closer, they’d stop. I don’t even know how I noticed them because they were so tiny, and difficult to see if you weren’t looking for them. I sat and watched them for quite awhile, and then continued to the dock.

I was expecting to see some boats waiting to take people back but there weren’t any. Finally, a boat came with two tourists and when I asked if they were going back to Koh Lipe, they said no and told me to keep waiting. Then, another boat came with two locals who were bringing stuff over to the island. As they were unloading the boat, I went and asked if they were going back to Koh Lipe. He asked if I was one person or if there were two people and I said one. He shook his head no. I had 100 baht in my hand and the woman said something to him, so he told me to get in the boat (thank goodness!). He took me back to Koh Lipe and then left again, so I’m not sure if he was actually a taxi but at least I got a ride back. I went to go have my pancake and shake and once I got there, it started pouring rain! I thought it would only last for awhile, but it just kept going and going – everyone outside was absolutely soaked. We went out for dinner to Madame YooHoo, where this old lady stands outside the restaurant yelling “Yoo hoo!” to try to get everyone’s attention. We had a pretty late dinner so I decided to go to bed afterwards – I think I tired myself out after the hike!

On Friday morning, I went back to Thai Lady Pancake for breakfast, where I had Pad Thai, a coffee, and a shake for 150 baht ($6.54).

I had to get laundry done so I went to a place close to the hostel that charged 60 baht per kilo. The thing that I liked about this place was that they pulled out a scale and actually weighed it right in front of me so I knew what the price would be beforehand. Today was going to be my “spa day!” I knew that I still needed to get a Thai massage and I figured what better place to have one than on the beach? I was hesitant to get a massage, as I’ve only gotten one before, which was a foot massage in China. And it was one of the most painful, un-relaxing experiences I’ve ever had so I wasn’t in a rush to get another one. One of the girls at the hostel told me to get an oil massage because it’s less painful, so that’s what I did. I went to JK Blue Beach Massage on Sunrise Beach because it had high ratings, and I knew that the masseuses (weird word…) were all certified and had education in massage. I asked for an oil massage, which would be 400 baht and then I also tipped 40 baht, which cost $19.20 in total. There were about 8 massage beds all in close proximity to each other – I was less than a foot away from the person next to me. In order to have an oil massage, you have to be naked so that was a bit weird for me to undress on a beach with people all around. However, the ladies were really great with keeping you covered and making the process as easy as possible. I have to say that during the first part of the massage, it took quite awhile for me to get comfortable with the actual massage. At one point, the lady was kneeling on my legs and digging her hands in my shoulders – as in all of her body weight was on top of me. I couldn’t ever get my mind to fully relax (obviously, I’m an over thinker – this is why I can’t nap) and I was constantly thinking of what I had to do later that day, what was she doing, how does it feel like there are ten hands on me at once. I honestly didn’t think I’d be able to last an hour. Eventually, I eased up and finally started to relax as every part of my body was massaged, head to toe (and all ten toes). The time then sped right by and all of a sudden, she said I was finished. I was so tempted to buy another hour, but decided against it. Best massage of my life (although I don’t have much to compare it to)!

After that, I decided to go for a manicure/pedicure. I was just going to do a pedicure, which costs 200 baht, but a mani/pedi costs 300 baht, so why not? Well, I’ll tell you why not in awhile… I found a place that looked nice (called Sabye Sabye) and walked in. The plus side was it’s the first place I had been to on Koh Lipe with air conditioning, so I got to enjoy that. Now, I have only had one pedicure before that I can compare this to, but this one definitely wasn’t the same. There was no soaking of the feet or hands, no scrubbing, no washing, etc. All it included was cutting the nails (which I had already done the day before) and painting the nails (which started coming off the day after). Regardless, I still tipped 30 baht so in total, it only cost me $14.40 so it wasn’t a huge amount of money wasted. I haven’t painted my fingernails in about five years because the last two times that I painted them, I woke up the next morning with huge, swollen eyes (almost swollen shut – I couldn’t even put my contacts in) and a rash all over my face and down my neck. I was hoping that since it’s been so long, maybe it won’t happen again. I woke up the next morning and I was fine! I was so happy because ever since I’ve come to Asia, I’ve had less skin problems and my skin hasn’t been as sensitive. I wasn’t even reacting to my sunscreen! (I had forgotten to knock on wood…) The day after that, my bottom lip felt a bit puffier when I was eating breakfast. I peeled off as much of the nail polish as I could that day, but I don’t have nail polish remover so there is still some that has stayed on. The next day, my eyes were a tad puffy (not as bad as usual, but if I looked up, I could feel my eyelids touch my eyebrow) my skin was soooo itchy, and I started to get spots all over my neck and chest. The problem was I kept scratching, but I’d obviously scratch with my fingernails, which would just add more chemicals to my skin, which would in turn make it even more itchy. I took a Claritin, which temporarily would make me less itchy. Today, I’m less puffy and less itchy, haven’t taken a Claritin, but the spots of my skin are starting to break into rash so it’ll probably take a few more days to clear my system (plus having a bit of nail polish still on my fingers probably doesn’t help but I couldn’t find nail polish remover so I might just have to sit through it). Anyway, I’ve always wanted to try fingernail polish again to see if I’d react, so now I know to stay away from it! After my mani/pedi, I went for my pancake and shake and then went back to visit with people at the hostel. We went for another late dinner at Thai Lady Pancake Shop, where I got Pad See-Ew and a shake for 130 baht ($5.67), and then we once again got drinks at 7-11 and sat on the beach to watch the fire dancers.

Saturday was my last full day on Koh Lipe. I had booked a full-day snorkel tour for 700 baht ($30.54) with Star Travel, and they would be picking me up at 9:15. I went to Thai Lady Pancake for a quick breakfast and coffee before going back to the hostel.

There were 8 of us in the group, but all of the tour groups went out together since we were in the middle of the ocean so if anything happened, one of the surrounding boats could help out. We rode the longtail boat for about an hour to go to the furthest point, stopped at Ko Hin Sorn to take a picture of the rocks, and went to Ko Bulo, where we got to go snorkelling for about 20 minutes.

I thought my snorkelling trip in Koh Lanta was nice but now that I’ve done this trip, it can’t even compare! There was so much coral everywhere with so many different types of fish, and the water was so clear. I kept seeing clownfish in the anemones, and the guide would pull me by the hand and dive down to point out other fish and animals. It was so cool! It really is like another world down there. We then went to another area, where we got to snorkel for another 30 minutes. Here, there were even more organisms – so many starfish, sea cucumbers, urchins, and many different types of fish. Then when I was about to get back into the boat, the guide took me away from the reef and pointed out a little stingray on top of the sand. I definitely wouldn’t have noticed it if he didn’t show it to me (along with many other fish)! We stopped at a beach called Ro Khloi Island, where we took some pictures and then we got to go for lunch.

They took us to another beach on Ko Butang and of course, this island had to have monkeys. I sat with a Dutch couple, and we enjoyed a pretty spicy curry chicken with rice meal while watching the monkeys steal other peoples’ food. After lunch, we went to a little inlet across from the beach to enjoy another 20 minutes of snorkelling.

We travelled to Ko Hin Ngam Gravel Beach, which was filled with perfectly polished rocks (meaning it was extremely slippery and dangerous walking from the boat to the island). As tempting as it were to stack the rocks, there were signs all around telling us not to, as well as a scary warning telling us about the Curse of Tarutao Island, and what would happen if we took a rock.

After our stop at the island, we had one last snorkel stop somewhat in the middle of the ocean. We just had to get out of the boat and pull ourselves along a rope to the other side and back, but the waves were so strong, it was a lot more difficult to see anything. We headed back to Koh Lipe, and the guide said that we could come to pick up our picture at 8pm (they took a picture of each of us underwater). I just stayed on the beach to enjoy the last of the sun and then watched the sunset before heading back to the hostel to shower.

I went to pick up my picture at 8 and they sent me a file which had about 100 pictures on it, which was a bonus!

That night, we went to Thai Lady Pancake Shop for one last dinner.

On Sunday morning, I had to catch my ferry at 11am and had to check in between 9 and 10am. I packed up my stuff, went to Thai Lady Pancake Shop for one last breakfast and one last shake, and then walked to the beach to check in at 9:45am. The walk was long (even though it was only 8 minutes), and I felt so sad to leave. It was nice to feel so at home on this beautiful island! I’ll definitely be back one day… Love always

Langkawi (Jan 11-14): Beaches, a Waterfall, and a Night Market

My trip to Langkawi was quite long, mostly due to the fact that I once again chose the cheaper option rather than the direct route. Every time I do this, I can always hear my dad’s voice in my head saying, “Why do you make things more difficult than they need to be?” Apparently, I’ve been doing this my whole life so something tells me that it won’t change now. However, this motivation and discipline has led me to build my budgeting skills and frugalness. I had breakfast at the hostel before catching a Grab to the ferry pier for 5 ringgit ($1.63). My credit card isn’t letting me buy tickets online due to the “Verified by Visa” check, because it sends a code to my phone number, which I don’t have anymore. Therefore, I just had to show up and hope that there would be space available. The quicker option that I could have done is a direct 3-hour ferry from Georgetown to Langkawi, which I heard costs 70 ringgit ($23.64). The route that I decided to take instead included three steps. The first step was to take a 20-minute ferry from Penang Island to the mainland in order to get to the bus station. I read that a ferry leaves every 20-30 minutes so I got there at 9:45 to make sure I could get to the station by 10:45. I also read that the ferry would cost 1.20 ringgit but I was never asked for money or for a ticket.

I got to the other side at around 10:20, found the Penang Sentral Station right beside the pier, and went to the ticket counter to buy a ticket. The ticket costs 19 ringgit ($6.20) for a 3-hour journey to Kuala Perlis. The lady told me to head down to the bus at 10:45, which gave me some time to buy snacks for the ride. The bus journey was fine, and we arrived in Kuala Perlis at 2pm. I had looked on my phone and saw that there was a ferry at 2pm (which I would have just missed) and another one at 4pm. I slowly walked towards the ferry terminal, where people were yelling from all directions, trying to get me to get a taxi or get ferry tickets. I was surprised to find out that a ferry would be leaving at 2:30pm so I bought my ticket for 18 ringgit ($5.88), quickly ran over to KFC to buy a burger, and got back just as they were boarding the ferry. We had assigned seating so I found my spot and relaxed for the 1 hour and 15-minute journey. They had a movie playing but I couldn’t understand it, so I mostly just tried to tune out the noise of crying children around me. We arrived in Langkawi at about 4pm and as soon as I got there, I was awed by its beauty.

I felt like I could stay there forever. However, I soon realised that it was a resort island and was therefore quite pricey compared to the rest of Malaysia. Also, it was quite a large island so I was quite isolated without being able to ride a motorbike. With Malaysia, you’re constantly being asked for things: massage, watersports, going into a restaurant, if you want a taxi.. it never ends. And that’s something that takes away from my ability to relax, as I just end up feeling uncomfortable. Langkawi was definitely like this wherever I went. Anyway, I got a Grab to my hostel, which took about 20-30 minutes and cost me 26 ringgit ($8.49). I was getting concerned when arriving because the taxi driver took me down a small street that seemed to lead to nowhere. However, it turns out that my hostel was actually in the middle of nowhere, which was kind of nice!

I stayed at Crowded House in a 4-bed dorm with an en-suite and it cost me $9.50 per night. The thing that I instantly noticed about this hostel was that pretty much everyone seemed to be above the age of 25 (some were in their 40s), whereas everywhere else I go to, I tend to be one of the oldest people there. While it was a cool place, there wasn’t any phone service in the rooms – only in the common room, so it caused people to be more antisocial because they were sitting on their phones most of the time. Also, the hostel seemed to have a lot of volunteers – people who would work at the hostel for free accommodation, so many people seemed to be staying long-term. Nearly everyone was vegetarian or vegan, nearly everyone smoked, and the amount of times that people spoke about getting and doing drugs was more than what I’m used to. I knew I wasn’t going to click with anyone there, so I spent most of my first couple of days on my own. I spent that evening at the beach to watch the sunset and then I went to a restaurant called Cactus Restaurant and got Singapore noodles for 10 ringgit ($3.26).

The hostel owner had asked if anyone would be interested in doing a half-day boat tour the next day for 40 ringgit ($13.06) and said that if he got 5 or 6 people to go, we could get a private tour. I figured it would be a good idea so I signed myself up.

We would be picked up at 9:30am on Saturday morning so I decided to get some breakfast first. The hostel doesn’t offer free breakfast and their kitchen was closed on Saturdays, so I walked down the street to see what I could find. However, pretty much all of the restaurants didn’t open until 9am. Luckily, one restaurant (Yam Yam) allowed me to come in 10 minutes early. I found the cheapest thing on the menu (2 eggs with toast) for 10 ringgit and then when they asked me what I wanted to drink, I said a latte, not realising that it would cost more than the eggs (11 ringgit). So with tax, I paid 23.10 ringgit ($7.54), ate my food as fast as I could, and got back to the hostel RIGHT at 9:30. The taxi driver came late and took five of us to the pier. We were given coloured stickers to put on our shirts and then had to wait for our boat to arrive. We soon realised that we wouldn’t be getting a private tour, as they squished us into a group with about 8 other people.

Once we got on the boat, we were given life jackets, which most of us were just going to hold, but once we got going, we quickly put them on. The boat ride was so intense! We were airborne multiple times and sometimes we’d land on a tilt, which made everyone nervous! It was funny at first but it got to the point where some of the guys on the boat were getting mad at the driver and telling him he needed to slow down. I was mostly concerned for all of the stuff that I had brought with me (my camera and phone), as I knew they’d be finished if we ended up flipping the boat. We finally made it to Tasik Dayang Bunting, the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden. There are many legends about this lake and apparently it will help women with infertility issues if they drink from the lake. We were given an hour here and we had to pay to get into the park, which cost 3 ringgit for Malaysians and 6 ringgit ($2) for foreigners. They also wouldn’t let plastic bags go into the park (due to monkeys), so I had to transfer everything into my bag. We had to walk through a huge group of monkeys in order to get to the lake, so I sped through as fast as I could, trying not to make eye contact, and making sure I stayed close to one of the three guys at all times. It definitely wasn’t the relaxing morning that I thought I’d be getting! We got to the lake but it was so crowded, as many other tour groups were there as well.

In order to swim, you needed to rent a life jacket for 2 ringgit, or you could rent a paddle boat to go around the lake. A couple of us decided to just go sit at a cafe outside of the park for the next hour because at least we could get some shade there. After that, we got back into the scary boat (which funnily enough, I preferred over being around the monkeys) and we stopped at a little cove where there must have been about 50 eagles flying around; it was pretty spectacular! That is.. until the boat driver started throwing meat into the water right beside me and some of the eagles swooped down a little too close for comfort.

I’ve never seen anything like it, it was pretty cool! The boat driver then took us to Pulau Beras Basah, an island with a long beach, where we got another hour to enjoy.

The beach was pretty shallow and the water wasn’t clean – I walked quite far out and the water never made it up to my waist. The guys spent their entire hour picking up garbage off the beach and filled up a large box. We then headed back to Langkawi and I decided to sit in the front of the boat. I could definitely feel the bumps a lot more up there, so my back was feeling it that evening and the next day. So in conclusion, I wouldn’t recommend this tour – we went from stress to stress to stress, and no one in the group seemed to enjoy it. We got back to the hostel at about 1:30 and by that point, I was starving so I walked to a restaurant called Tomato Nasi Kandar which is an Indian restaurant. I had to go up to the front to order so I got curry chicken with rice, an iced coffee (which was sooo sweet), and a coke for 9.80 ringgit ($3.20).

The other people from the hostel showed up at around 3pm, so I visited with them and then we all walked back to the hostel. I spent the next hour or so trying to figure out what else I should do and where I should go in Malaysia. My original plan was to go to the Perhentian Islands (which are apparently absolutely gorgeous), as well as some other islands on the east side of mainland Malaysia, but what I didn’t realise was that it’s monsoon season on that side of Malaysia so pretty much everything closes down. The monsoon season on that side lasts for 6 months and then apparently the monsoon season goes to the other side of Malaysia for the next six months, which makes travelling a bit more difficult. I was even trying to decide if I should just move to another hostel on Langkawi. I visited with some people in the hostel for a couple hours and then went to a restaurant called Boat Restaurant and had a vermicelli noodle dish, some vegetables in oyster sauce, and an iced tea for 19 ringgit ($6.20). The food at this restaurant was so good, and the hospitality was very friendly!

On Sunday morning, I ordered breakfast at the hostel and got French Toast for 12 ringgit ($3.92). I’m pretty picky about my French toast so I was quite hesitant upon ordering it, but it was made perfectly. During breakfast, I got talking to a girl who had just arrived the night before (Jade) from London. She asked what I was planning to do and I said I wanted to check out Oriental Village, and hike up to the Seven Wells Waterfall. She asked if it would be okay if she joined and I happily obliged since it would cut my Grab transportation in half. Instantly, I knew that Jade was the type of person that I’d click with – it was like we’d been friends for years, and we chatted away about anything and everything. Honestly, I was kind of relieved since I hadn’t met anyone like that for a few days. She felt the same way that I did about our hostel and she was planning to move hostels the next day, so I started getting the idea that maybe I should as well. Anyway, we took a Grab to Oriental Village for 12 ringgit each ($3.92), arrived at about 11:30, and walked around for a bit.

The main attraction in Langkawi is the cable car, but it’s also overpriced so I wasn’t too keen on trying it. However now, I’ve only heard amazing things about it so I’m wondering if I made a mistake by skipping out on it. We found a bunny farm in Oriental Village and went to check it out but a lot of the bunnies looked a bit rough, so I didn’t go around petting them.

They were pretty cute though! We had a lot of difficulty figuring out where the beginning of the hike started and had to ask around. We realised it wasn’t actually IN Oriental Village – we had to leave the village, walk through the parking lot, and walk about 600 metres down the highway to get to another small village-like area, which had two restaurants and an information centre. We were both getting hungry by that point and weren’t sure when we’d get to have food again since we were expecting to hike for the next couple of hours, so we stopped at one of the two restaurants called Kahuna Kitchen. The owners were so friendly, and we both ordered a curry noodle soup dish, which was really tasty. With a coke, it cost us 11 ringgit each ($3.59).

I was sitting there enjoying my soup and all of a sudden, I looked up and saw a monkey heading towards us. I wasn’t too sure what to do, as I knew it was going for our food. Luckily, the owner saw it too and ran out of the restaurant with a brick and pretended to throw it at the monkey so it would run off. It did, and we were able to enjoy the rest of our lunch monkey-free. We were finally ready to start our hike (I’m pretty sure we were both trying to hold it off for as long as we possibly could). We climbed an extremely steep street for about five minutes, used the bathroom at the top, and then saw that we could either go left to the waterfall, or straight to the seven wells. We decided to start by going left, literally walked 100 metres, and the waterfall was right there! It turns out that we didn’t have as big of a walk as we were expecting! The waterfall was one of the nicer ones I’ve seen – not humongous, but still better than some of the little trickles I’ve seen in the past. When we got there, there were only four other people there so we basically got the entire thing to ourselves.

I think what happens is most people take the cable car, and you can see the waterfall from there so most people don’t bother going to see it up close. And anyone who goes to do the “hike” probably walks to the seven wells since they’re more well-known. We took advantage of having a waterfall to ourselves, climbed up near the top, and found a flat surface right beside the falls. It was pretty slippery getting there and Jade dropped her phone, which slid all the way down until a guy ran after it and caught it right before it slipped off the edge into the water. Anyway, we went back and forth between lying in the sun and going down to the bottom of the falls to have a swim. It was quiet for the first one or two hours, but at around 3pm, more and more people started to come. We realised that we should have taken our pictures when we had the place to ourselves because we struggled getting pictures without other people coming into the shot. We stayed there for about four hours and all of a sudden just after 5pm, someone whistled at us. I sat up and he waved us over and said that we couldn’t sit where we were sitting – we had to come to the other side of the falls. Confused, we packed up our stuff and climbed back over the falls to the other side. The guy said that he was safety staff and that someone had died that day from slipping. He said he had to take two people to the hospital. It kind of made sense as to why he wasn’t there the entire day though. We were planning to leave anyway, since the sun was nearly behind the hills and he asked if we had went up to Seven Wells yet. We said no and he said that he could take us there. I asked if we could wear flip flops or if we should change back into our running shoes, and he said the flip flops would be fine. Turns out Seven Wells was only a 250 metre walk away, but it was up 350 steps. The guy ran up, and Jade and I quickly fell behind. We finally made it to the top but he took us past the viewpoint and said he had something better to show us. He walked us to his friend who was in one of the seven pools and he got out, introduced himself, and said he’d be showing us one of the nicest places to swim with the clearest water. They suddenly led us into a forest and said that it was just a five-minute walk down the path. We were trekking through and it was obvious that the path was hardly walked on, as there were leaves covering the entire way. It definitely wasn’t the type of walk to do in flip flops because we had to climb over rocks and bend under trees. At one point, my flip flop got caught so I tripped, and my flip flop got tangled in my foot. The guys were saying how lucky we were because hardly anyone gets to see this pool of water, no one knows about it, not even the government. It was then that warning signs started going into overdrive in my head and I kept turning to try to make eye contact with Jade, but she was on her phone (she was actually trying to find our location to send out in case something happened, so we were obviously both feeling the same way). After about ten minutes of walking, we got to the bottom of a big hill and they said that we just had to go up and then back down and we would be there, “12 minutes!” 12 minutes?! I looked at Jade and said I felt iffy about this and she agreed. So I just said that we were okay and we wanted to go back. “But we’re almost there, we’re already halfway!” “No, it’s okay, we’re fine.” “But it’s the nicest waters, you won’t be able to swim in clean waters back at Seven Wells.” “We don’t want to swim, we just wanted to look at the view.” We started walking back and as we got to the end, the one guy said that when we had come, he was just about to start cleaning out one of the wells and get all of the rocks and leaves out, and now he won’t have time. We apologised for wasting his time and as soon as we got to the end of the trail, both of the guys wandered off. Jade and I went to the viewpoint and then made our way back down so that we could change out of our swimsuits.

We changed and then went to find a place to sit so we could talk about what had just happened. All of a sudden, Jade looks shocked and says, “Your foot is bleeding!” I looked down and half of my foot and my flip flop were covered in blood. “Oh… it is…” “You don’t feel anything?!” It wasn’t until I poured water on it that I started to feel a bit of pain (thank goodness for my high pain threshold!). Jade kept wondering how long it would have taken me to notice if she hadn’t of said anything. I kept pouring water on it but the blood just kept coming out between my big toe and the next toe. I must have cut it when I tripped. I decided to just wrap my toe in a tissue, put my sock over it, and put my runners back on. For the rest of the night, I was fine as long as I was walking and putting pressure on it, but anytime I sat down, it would start to hurt. We headed back down to Oriental Village but nearly everything was closed by that time (it was only just after 6). Langkawi has a night market that moves around every night so conveniently, it was actually on the way back to our hostel. We got a Grab to the night market, which cost us 9 ringgit each ($2.94). The night market was so incredibly cool! Just seeing how the food was packaged in bags or in newspaper, and being able to try different foods was a really neat experience.

We started by getting some little cake-like things called dorayaki, which were 3 for 1 ringgit (30 cents)! I decided to try a coconut one, a corn one, and a red bean one, and all of them were so delicious!

The next thing I wanted to do was get a drink in a bag. We found a place and I decided to get a coconut one for 3 ringgit ($1). The guy grabbed a cup and I quickly said, “No, no, can I please get it in a bag?” So I finally got my juice in a bag, which they fill RIGHT up to the top.

You had to stop and chug a bunch, just so it wouldn’t go everywhere. After that, I decided to try a couple of chicken satay skewers, which were .60 ringgit each, so I got two for 1.20 ringgit (41 cents).

Since there wasn’t really anywhere that we could sit, we decided to just buy our dinners to take back to the hostel so that we could eat there. I decided to get a chicken po-boy-type of sandwich, which cost me 5 ringgit ($1.69) and we also decided to get 3 more of the dorayaki cakes each because they were so good!

So in total, I only spent 10.20 ringgit ($3.33) and I got so much food out of it – we were both stuffed! We went back to the hostel in a Grab for 8 ringgit each ($2.61), ate our meals, and then looked up different hostels that we could move into the following day. I figured I might as well stay a couple more days so that I could see the cable car and check out the nicest beach on the island. After staying up and visiting with everyone, we all went to bed.

The next morning, I packed up all of my stuff so that I could check out of the hostel. I ran into one of the guys in my room when I was walking out and said I was struggling to decide what I wanted to do. “Why don’t you go to Koh Lipe in Thailand?” It was something that I didn’t consider, but it was only a 90-minute boatride away and suddenly I couldn’t stop thinking about it. I talked to my sister on FaceTime for awhile, ordered breakfast from the hostel kitchen, which was a tempeh burger and was absolutely amazing, especially for someone who doesn’t like tofu and soy (I didn’t know what tempeh was when I ordered it).

Anyway, after talking to my sister, I went and sat down with Jade and told her my thoughts. I figured that if I went to Koh Lipe, I’d be coming back to Langkawi anyway so it would make sense to do all of the touristy things when I came back. I asked if she’d be interested in joining and she said that since she was only in Langkawi for 6 days and was only on a short holiday before going back to London, she figured she should stay. I asked the hostel owner what the chances were that he could get me on the last ferry to Koh Lipe at 2:30 (it was already 12). “Tomorrow?” “No… today.” His eyes widened and he didn’t seem too convinced, but he said he’d make a call. It would cost me 135 ringgit ($44.07) to take the ferry and get a ride to the ferry pier, and he said the taxi driver could pick me up in a half hour. So it was decided – I’d be going back to Thailand! Normally, I’m a planner so this was completely out of the ordinary for me, but it gave a sense of thrill that I now understand other people must get when making decisions on the go (or maybe I only got that thrill because it never happens). Anyway, Koh Lipe will be for another post. Love always

Penang/Georgetown (Jan 8-11): A Topsy-Turvy Museum, a Thief, and Tons of Turtles

Ben and I had bought bus tickets from Kuala Lumpur to Penang late on Monday night. The tickets only cost 38 ringgit each ($12.41AUD) so it was a pretty good deal for a 5-hour ride! We got up at 8 so that we could check out of the hostel by 8:45 and make our way to the bus station. By the time we bought metro tickets and figured out HOW to get to the bus station, we realised we were cutting it close so we decided to just book a Grab in order to make it to the bus station by 9:30. The bus arrived late (which seems to be normal in Asia) and with all of the extremely long stops on the way, we arrived about an hour later than expected. However, the time went by fast so it wasn’t a huge deal. Georgetown is the main part of Penang – it’s a UNESCO historic site and I had heard nothing but great things about it. Maybe my expectations were too high but to be honest, I didn’t see what the big deal was about this city, and most travellers who I’ve met afterwards completely agreed. Ben only had one night in Georgetown before he had to go back to Kuala Lumpur the next afternoon to catch his flight back to Sydney, so we tried to fit as much in as we could. We checked into Ryokan Muntri Boutique Hostel, which cost $10 per night, and then we walked around to look at all of the “attractions.” We walked to Chinatown and Little India, and then it started to rain. We decided to keep walking, despite neither of us having a rain jacket or umbrella, and walked past town hall, along the pier, and looked at the clock tower (sorry, but I didn’t take any pictures because of the rain). Maybe it was the time that we came, but the town seemed almost eerily quiet. After walking around for a couple of hours, we went to a food court near our hostel called Red Garden Food Paradise & Night Market. It was kind of like an outdoor, covered area with multiple food stalls around the outside, a stage in the middle, and tons of tables everywhere else. We decided to order from Kimpo Famous Roasted Crispy Duck, Chicken & Pork, where I got roast duck with rice for 7 ringgit ($2.37) and a watermelon juice for 3.30 ringgit ($1.12).

We didn’t realise that you had to find a table first and then go up to the stall to order food, so Ben had to run to find a table so that he could give them a table number. Then, we sat at the table and paid them as soon as the food arrived. It’s quite difficult getting used to how ordering and paying works in each place! After eating dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to dessert. Ben decided on a waffle with peanut butter and bananas, and I decided on an Oreo ice cream sandwich. Both of them were so good! By that time, the entertainment had started so we had a couple of beers and watched the singers perform before heading back to the hostel.

The next morning (Wednesday), we got up and had breakfast at the hostel (which was one of the better hostel breakfasts), which had not only toast but naan and curry, boiled eggs, mashed potatoes with gravy (interesting breakfast choice?), and hotdogs. Ben had to catch his bus at 2 so we started the day off by going to the upside-down museum. It cost 25 ringgit each with a hostel discount ($8.16). The museum is basically a house but everything is glued to the ceiling, which was pretty cool! However, we got through the entire museum in ten minutes because the staff completely rushed everyone through. We walked into the kitchen and one staff member would say, “Sir, you pose like this” and the other would say, “Miss, you pose like this.” We’d pose, they’d snap a picture, and then they’d push us into the next room. At the end, we asked if we could walk through again backwards just so we could actually look at everything, so they let us.

After that, we decided to go to the funicular, as it’s supposed to be the longest cable car in Asia. I requested a Grab to take us to the cable car for 12 ringgit ($3.92), which would take about a half hour. On the way there, I went on the website and saw that they were closing the funicular from January 7-12 to do their bi-annual safety check. I broke the news to Ben but since we were already halfway there, we decided to keep going to see if there’d be anything else in the area. Then by some happy coincidence, the Grab driver actually ended up taking us to a completely different cable car because I chose the wrong destination (oops.. I didn’t know there’d be more than one cable car in Penang). He dropped us off at the top of a beautiful temple called Kek Lok Si Temple. I didn’t bring my sarong that day but luckily, this temple wasn’t strict about covering up. On the top level, there was a giant statue, the Quan Yin Statue, which was undergoing renovations, as well as a beautiful view of the city.

We took a cable car down to the next level (there were four levels total), where we got to walk through the actual temple. It was much different from all of the other temples we went to, as it seemed like something you’d normally find in China. We decided to walk the rest of the way down, where we found a Tortoise Pond on the next level.

We watched them for quite awhile and then walked down to the next level, where there was the Air Itam food market. I looked up the best places to eat and the top pick was Penang Air Itam Laksa, which was a street food vendor whose tables were completely full. Two ladies waved us over to their table so we joined them and found out they were from Singapore. The restaurant only serves one dish (laksa) so we decided to give it a try since it’s one of the main dishes in Malaysia. However, the broth was very fishy tasting and there was a lot of mint added to it, which just seemed like too much. After trying it for awhile, Ben and I both agreed to find another place. Luckily, we didn’t lose much money as it was only 9 ringgit for the two of us ($3.05)! The two ladies at our table suggested that we go to Sister’s Curry Mee, which is another street food vendor with only one dish (a kind of curry noodle soup), which would be closing at 1 so we only had 20 minutes to get there and eat.

The food was alright, however with every bite, it got spicier and spicier. It got to the point where I tried adding soy sauce just to make it a little less spicy. When neither of us could eat anymore, we took a Grab back to our hostel so that Ben could get his stuff, and then we took another Grab to the bus station. We got there with ten minutes to spare, the shuttle van arrived late (of course), and then we had to wait for the bus driver to fix the lightbulb in the waiting room before everyone could board the bus, which was quite comical considering they were already late to begin with. Finally, everyone was able to get on the bus so Ben and I said our goodbyes, and once again, I was a lone traveller. I’ve found that I travel in patterns.. I’ll meet people who I really get along with in one place, we’ll say goodbye, and then I’ll be completely antisocial in the next place because I’ll be too sad to try to make friends. Then I’ll try to make friends again in the place after that. It’s a vicious cycle! Anyway, since the bus station was at the bottom of a shopping mall, I decided to check out some of the stores and then walk towards my hostel. There’s a Mexican restaurant next to the hostel called Holy Guacamole (one of my main phrases) so I just HAD to try it out. It was happy hour so I got a margarita and some tortilla chips with salsa for 19 ringgit ($6.20). My plan was to go to the beach to watch the sunset and check out the night market, so I went to the hostel to change. However, as soon as I got back, it started pouring rain for the next few hours. When the rain finally slowed down, I went back to the Red Garden Night Market to get some dinner. This time, I got a Vietnamese vermicelli noodle bowl with spring rolls and a watermelon shake for 15.50 ringgit ($5.06). It was really good!

I got back to the hostel and went to grab my bag off of my bed so that I could get ready for bed. However, I noticed that all of my makeup was on top, which I was confused about since I haven’t used my makeup during my entire trip. Then I noticed that my medication was in the bag, but I usually keep it in one of my packing cubes which is normally kept on the shelf beside my bed. When I looked at my shelf, everything had been cleared off of it. It was then that everything started going in slow motion, when I came to realise that someone had gone through my stuff. I had that exact feeling when I realised that I had my money stolen in London three years ago. Someone had taken the shaving kit packing cube, emptied everything inside of it into the bag on my bed, and literally just took the packing cube. I sat there for the longest time, totally confused, and tried to figure out if there was anything of value that the person may have taken, but I couldn’t think of anything. My universal adaptor was still there, my memory cards were still there, my glasses, medications (thank goodness), everything was still there. I only realised later that the person didn’t empty the inside pocket, which had tweezers, nail clippers, band-aids, and possibly other things that I can’t remember. There had only been one other person in our room, so I’m thinking that he must have went through everything before he left (luckily I had my main bag with everything else securely locked in a locker). Why does he need a packing cube so badly? We’ll never know..

On Thursday morning, I went down for breakfast and there were four people from the Kuala Lumpur hostel there, and one of them was Mike! I sat with them and we exchanged info so that we could meet up for dinner later that day. I decided to go to the National Park so I walked to the bus stop, paid 4 ringgit ($1.31), and took the hour-long bus ride to the park. By the time I got there, it was noon so I decided to get lunch since I didn’t know how long I’d be hiking for. I stopped at a restaurant right outside the park entrance and got a noodle dish with my first Penang iced white coffee (which was so good!) and a coke for 13.50 ringgit ($4.51).

By the way, I realise that I’m drinking a lot of coke on this trip.. I don’t normally drink it but in weather like this, nothing is more satisfying than having a cold coke. It literally loses its cold within 1 or 2 minutes after being taken out of the fridge, which is why I can’t get the same satisfaction from the always-warm water that I carry around with me. Anyway, after lunch I made my way to the national park. There are two trails that you can do – one is more hilly and goes to Turtle Beach, and one goes along the coast and goes to Monkey Beach. I had already decided that I was going to do the Monkey Beach trail, but soon found out that you could only do half of it (to a lighthouse) and the rest was closed because of a mudslide. However, there was a stall outside of the park that was offering boat rides to monkey beach from the lighthouse or from turtle beach. I asked how much it would cost to take a boat and the prices varied from 100-300 ringgit ($30-90)! I politely declined and decided I’d just do the turtle beach hike. It’s free to get into the national park but you still have to sign up at the front, say where you’re going, and give contact information in case you get lost (which I’m not sure how this would help as there wasn’t any service for the majority of the hike). Then, they gave you a permit to enter the park. Within the first ten minutes, I already encountered my first set of monkeys and I quickly realised that I’ve developed a fear of them because of my last monkey attack. I calmly talked to them to say that I didn’t have any food (I know better now) as they watched me put my mosquito repellent on.

They soon lost interest and left me alone. The information wasn’t wrong when it said that the turtle beach path was hilly – I was constantly sweating during the duration of the hike. I’m hoping that I’m losing weight just by sweating out my body weight in water everyday. The hike was still so nice – it’s amazing being completely alone in the middle of the forest and being able to hear all of the sounds around you. You realise that you’re actually not so alone. I got to turtle beach in just over an hour, but I think I enjoyed the scenery of the actual hike over the endpoint. It was a beach that you weren’t allowed to swim in, and then there was also a turtle sanctuary that just had some turtles in big plastic containers of water.

Apparently they give free tours, but no one was around so I didn’t spend much time there. I made my way back and got back in about 45 minutes.

I waited for the bus and decided to stop at Ferringhi Beach on the way back to Georgetown. I treated myself to McDonald’s and got some fries, a sundae, and tried a taro pie (which was delicious!) for 10.85 ringgit ($3.54). I walked down to the beach but I kept getting approached by people asking if I wanted to JetSki or do watersports. The beach wasn’t that nice so I just walked back to the bus stop and waited for the next bus. I got off at the mall, bought myself everything that had been stolen since it would be the last time I’d be in a city for awhile (a new bag, tweezers and nail clippers), and went back to the hostel where I ran into everyone else. The five of us went to Red Garden Night Market again and this time, I got some pork and chive dumplings for 9 ringgit ($2.94). After listening to the performers for awhile, I headed back to the hostel to get my bag packed and go to bed to leave for Langkawi the next morning. And that’s Penang! Love always