Kuala Lumpur (Jan 5-8): Temples, Amazing Views, and Tons of Food

At 5:30am on Saturday morning, I got a taxi from my hostel to the Krabi airport. My first flight was to Bangkok and I had already checked in online so I was able to skip onto security and get through quite quickly. I had a coffee and waited for my 7:30 flight. The flight was a short 1 hour and 10 minutes so I landed in Bangkok at around 8:45, and then had to make my way to the other terminal since I would be flying internationally to Kuala Lumpur. This time, I flew with Malindo Air. Usually when I check in online, there’s a separate desk for document checks, but this airline didn’t have one. Therefore, I still had to wait in the long line to get my boarding pass printed out. The agent asked me for proof that I’d be leaving Malaysia so I showed her my return ticket to Taipei. However, when she saw that I’d be coming back to Kuala Lumpur after Taipei in February, she asked for proof that I’d be leaving Malaysia after that. I had to go through my phone and find the information to show that I’d be flying back to Bangkok, otherwise I’m not sure they would have given me my boarding pass. Finally, I got my boarding pass, went through security, and got something to eat before my flight at 11:50am. I also needed to take out some cash before I left since my travel card only allows USD and Thai Baht withdrawals – any other currency, I’ll be charged a percentage of whatever I take out. However, when I asked the information booth where the ATM was, they said they didn’t have any ATM’s – what?! So I’d be forced to take out Malaysian Ringgit when I arrive in Kuala Lumpur… The flight was only 2 hours and 15 minutes but it was the first flight since I’ve started my trip where I got in-flight entertainment. Not only that, but it’s the first flight since I’ve started my trip where they’ve given free food and drinks! I got some pizza with a red velvet-type brownie, along with grape juice and water. So I have to say that I was quite impressed with this airline.

We arrived just after 3 so I was only able to get through half of my movie and then I had to figure out how to get to my hostel. As usual, I decided to skip the faster, more expensive option of the rapid bus and instead take the slower, cheaper bus to KL Sentral, the main station, for 12 ringgit ($3.92AUD). The bus left at 4pm and took exactly an hour so I got to KL Sentral by 5. Then, I had to figure out how to take the metro to where my hostel was. I bought my ticket for 3 ringgit ($1) but then I couldn’t figure out where I had to catch the metro. I went through one turnstile, went up to the platform, realised I was in the wrong place, and lost my token when I exited. So I had to buy another token for 3 ringgit and this time I went to the information booth to find out how to get to Bukit Bintang station. He told me to follow the signs that said MRT so I did, and it was at least a 5-10 minute walk to another station, so I’m glad I asked. Finally, I got there, scanned my token, and got on the metro. My hostel, Sunshine Bedz KL was right next to the station, and it cost 28 ringgit per night ($9.49). Kuala Lumpur is a lot more humid than it was in Thailand so even though it was 33 degrees everyday that I was there, it was “feels like” 38 or 39. Meaning I was sweating and desperately hoping for A/C everywhere I went. By the time I arrived, it was just after 6pm so I was pretty hungry. I got myself organised, sat in the hostel for awhile, and then decided to check out the street market right next to the hostel, called Jalan Alor.

There were tons of street stalls and restaurants there, with people constantly approaching you, trying to get you to come into their restaurant. I was quite taken aback that first night, as I wasn’t used to being approached because it hardly ever happened when I was in Thailand. I decided to go to a restaurant called Wong Ah Wah, where I decided to try their famous chicken wings, and also had a noodle dish. The chicken wings were actually really good, although they were a bit different than what I’m used to. My meal with a coke cost me 21.50 ringgit ($7.02) so it was a pretty good deal!

I walked around for quite awhile afterwards and checked out some of the shops in the area, as well as listened to some of the buskers on the street. You’re immediately able to tell that it’s a poorer country, not only because everything is so cheap, but also because there are people sitting down the length of the sidewalks, asking for money – it’s quite sad to see. I went back to the hostel at about 10, chatted with some other travellers, and then got ready for bed.

On Sunday morning, I got up and went to get breakfast in the hostel, which is where I met the people who I spent the next few days with. It all started the night before when I spotted someone on the sidewalk wearing a t-shirt that belongs to my university sport team. I went up and asked if he was from Saskatchewan but he was British and said he had gotten the t-shirt at a vintage shop in London. The next morning, that same guy was having breakfast at my hostel so I went and sat with him, found out his name is Ben, and I also met an Irish guy named Mike and another Canadian girl (from Toronto) named Daina. When we all realised that we had the same plan of going to Batu Temple, we decided we might as well go together. We took a Grab (which is basically Uber in Southeast Asia), which ended up costing us about 4 ringgit each ($1.30) and drove for quite awhile to get to the area. Batu Temple is a Hindu temple and it’s one of the most colourful places I’ve ever seen – it was so cool!

We had to climb up 272 colourful steps to get to the top but on the way up, we saw an educational tour of the Dark Caves. It cost 35 ringgit each ($11.43), but it was so worth it! We had to wait about 20 minutes until the next tour, were given helmets and flashlights, and then started the tour, which was about 45 minutes long. Our tour guide knew a lot of information and was also pretty funny, so it was a really good tour to take.

After our tour finished, we continued up to the top of the stairs to take a look at the temple (and the monkeys, which weren’t AS aggressive as the ones at Tiger Cave, just as long as you didn’t have food).

By the time we got back to the bottom, we were all starving so we took a Grab back to our hostel and found a food court on the bottom level of a mall nearby, which literally had every type of food that you can imagine. I decided to go for a crunchy chicken and rice dish, which was delicious and only 12.60 ringgit ($4.11). We then all got some cheese tarts, which were actually better than I was expecting. Once you bit into the tart, the cheese (or whatever filling you got) would ooze out.

After our very late lunch (we finished at 3:30pm), we went back to the hostel to change so that we could go to one of the rooftop bars to watch the sunset. We walked to Skybar, which is one of the coolest bars I’ve seen. It’s on the 33rd floor and right in the middle of the bar, it has a swimming pool with no roof. Around the pool, there are plenty of seating areas, with tables and chairs on one side, and lounge-type areas on the other side with a beautiful view of the Petronas Towers.

The cheapest (alcoholic) drink on the menu was a beer for 22 ringgit ($7.18), but it was worth it for the view (and being able to avoid having to pay the expensive fee to get to the top of the Petronas Towers for the same type of view). We stayed for a few hours and got to experience the heavy rainfall that occurred into the pool beside us, which was pretty neat.

After we finished our drinks, we walked down to the Petronas Towers, where there are a bunch of musical fountains. As soon as we got there, the music stopped so we sat and waited for about a half hour and nothing happened. Then as soon as we got up and walked away, the music started again! Bad timing on our parts I guess…

We decided to have dinner back at Jalan Alor and this time, we went to a restaurant called Meng Kee Grill Fish, where I had another noodle dish and a Pepsi for 13 ringgit ($4.24).

Afterwards, I even tried durian for the first time! It actually wasn’t too bad – it was deep-fried and it tasted sweet with a hint of onion 🙂

On Monday morning, I woke up a bit later, had breakfast, and no one was around. I hadn’t exchanged any contact information with Ben, Mike, and Daina so I figured that maybe they had already left. Luckily, just as I was putting on my shoes to leave, I ran into Ben so I said I’d go get a SIM card while they were eating breakfast. I picked up a SIM card at 7-Eleven and it was 30 ringgit for 30 days of unlimited data plus 25 ringgit for the actual SIM card, which totalled to $14.69. I went back to the hostel to meet up with everyone, and then we walked towards Chinatown. We found a cool market called Petaling Street Market, walked through it, and then stopped at the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, another Hindu temple. We had to pay .20 ringgit to store our shoes and then we spent awhile walking around the temple.

After that, we went to Central Market to check out some of the artwork and souvenirs. By that time, we were feeling pretty hungry since it was nearly 1pm so we took a metro to Little India, which is a cute and colourful little neighbourhood.

We found a restaurant called Seetharam Family Curry House, where I had a chicken curry set meal with 3-layer tea. It was so much food and all of it only cost 24 ringgit ($7.84)!

We took a Grab to Taman Eko Rimba, an ecopark that’s completely free. I’ve actually been shocked as to how many attractions are offered for free! We started with a canopy walk, which gave some nice views of the park. Then, we lathered on mosquito repellent and started walking through the forest.

It closed at 5pm so we got out just in time and walked back to the hostel. We all showered, changed, and decided to just have a KFC dinner, where I got a 3-piece chicken tender set with fries, mashed potatoes, and a root beer float, all for 14 ringgit ($4.57)! We headed back to the hostel because we signed up to take part in pub trivia so we had to be at the hostel for 8:30. At about 9, we all (a group of about 30-40 people) walked to an Irish pub, where the trivia was taking place. Due to technical difficulties, a lot of our time was just spent sitting around and chatting because they couldn’t get the tv’s connected (the rain kept making the power go out). However, our team won the first round (which I didn’t contribute any knowledge for whatsoever) and got a pitcher of beer to share. Overall (after 3 rounds), our table got second place so we won a bottle of vodka. Pretty much everyone else continued partying afterwards but Ben and I were catching a bus to Penang the next morning so since I had to get up by 8, I decided to go back to the hostel and go to bed. Kuala Lumpur is such a beautiful city and I feel like I spent just the right amount of time there to see everything, plus I met some pretty cool people. Will definitely be back again! Love always

Krabi Town (Jan 2-5): Monkey Attacks and Tropical Storms

My trip back to Krabi was pretty simple – my hostel owner booked a shared taxi for me, which cost 300 baht ($13AUD). Once I arrived, it was about 5:30pm. The hostel I stayed at was called Pak-Up hostel, and it used to be a primary school before it became a hostel so they stuck to the school theme, which was kind of neat.

I stayed in a 10-person female dorm for 300 baht per night ($13.58), and the hostel offered a free barbecue every night of your stay (which was just two skewers with chicken and vegetables, so I only took advantage of it once cause we ended up having to stand in line for over a half hour to get them). I showered and got all of my stuff organised, and then I was starving since I didn’t really eat a proper lunch. I went to a restaurant nearby called Chalita, which served both Thai and western food. My stomach still felt a bit off so I decided to just get a spicy chicken burger with fries. After dinner, I walked around one of the night markets before heading back to the hostel and going to bed.

In my last blog, I forgot to mention that when I went for lunch with Karin in Koh Lanta, she had found a news article about a tropical storm heading towards southern Thailand. She was worried that she should leave Koh Lanta because it was supposed to get worse by Friday and Saturday. On Thursday morning in Krabi, I got up earlier because I wanted to catch the ferry to Railay Beach, which is one of the really nice beaches in the Krabi area. The hostel said that as long as I show up a half hour early to book, I’d be okay. The ferry I wanted to catch would be at 10 so I went down at about 8:30, booked my ticket, and went to a cafe nearby for breakfast. I decided to just get chicken fried rice with a latte at a place called Coconuts Cafe, and then I went back to the hostel at 9:30 to catch my ferry.

However, once I got there, the hostel workers said that the government wasn’t letting any boats leave the pier so I wouldn’t be able to go to Railay Beach. All of the other tours that I would have wanted to take would have already done their pick-ups between 9 and 9:20, so I couldn’t even choose one of those as another option. Krabi Town doesn’t really have much to do for tourists – most of the stuff to see is outside of the city so you either need to pay for public transportation, or rent a motorbike. I decided I might as well check out the Tiger Cave Temple, so I asked the hostel workers how I could get there. They said I’d have to take a taxi for 500 baht, which seemed a bit steep. After doing some research online, I realised I could just catch a songthaew, which is basically just a truck.

For me to get to Tiger Cave Temple, it would only cost 50 baht each way ($2.18)!! I don’t know why the hostel workers didn’t bother telling me this information because it was a much cheaper alternative, at 10% of the price. However, now I think it’s because they have a taxi that belongs to the hostel so they’re able to make more money this way. I walked about five minutes to where all of the songthaews were parked, found a red one that specifically said Tiger Cave on it, paid the driver 50 baht, and got in the back of the truck with two other locals. It was a pretty cool way of being able to see the city, as the entire back is open. I got to the entrance at about 10:30am and by that time, it was already so hot!

In order to get up to the temple, you had to climb 1260 stairs while passing multiple hungry and agressive monkeys. I had brought some snacks cause I figured I would get hungry, but I could fit them into my day bag, so my only other option was to tie the plastic bag of snacks onto the back of my backpack. I started the trek up to the temple and I’m not even kidding that after 100 steps, my legs were already hurting. These steps all had different sizes, so some would only be a few inches high, while others would be over a foot. It definitely tired me out a lot faster, and the heat didn’t help!

After about 250-300 steps, I finally ran into my first group of monkeys. There were plastic bottles and food wrappers everywhere, and I was trying to face the monkeys at all times in hopes that they wouldn’t notice the plastic bag on my back. I suddenly felt a tug on the water bottle under my arm, and pulled it back from the greedy monkey trying to take it. It was then that a smaller monkey noticed the plastic bag on my back so it jumped on my bag and was hanging off of it. Luckily, it couldn’t figure out how to open the bag so eventually it jumped off and I quickly ran up the stairs to escape the rest of the group.

I continued slowly making my way up the stairs while taking multiple breaks along the way. I kept getting “Good lucks” from the people coming back down, and they’d point to my bag of treats. I’d reply that I’ve already been jumped on and it was fine. However, I definitely wasn’t prepared for what was to come… I’ve found that on many stair climbs that I’ve done, the monkeys get more and more aggressive as you make your way to the top. And these ones got much larger. A few hundred steps later, I ran into my second group of monkeys. They noticed my plastic bag within a matter of seconds, and before I knew it, two large monkeys jumped on my back, ripped open the plastic bag and all of the snacks inside it, and had a feast of food at my feet. Everyone around me was shocked, including myself. I should have taken a picture but I think I was more stunned than anything, and wanted to get myself as far away from those monkeys as possible. I FINALLY made it to the top after about 45 minutes and I looked and felt like a hot, sweaty mess. When I did the CN Tower climb a few years ago, it was 500 steps higher, I did it almost ten minutes faster, and I felt like I was going to die THEN. However at least during that time, the steps were all the same height and I was in a cool stairwell. This time felt way worse! I sat down for quite awhile to try to cool myself down and then I finally got up to enjoy the views. It was a pretty overcast day, so I’m assuming it would have been even more spectacular with a blue sky, but at least it wasn’t foggy so I was still able to see everything around. At the top, I had to make sure my knees and shoulders were covered, so I covered up with a sarong and a cardigan (which was the last thing I wanted to do in the state that I was in). However, the climb was definitely worth it and the views were still pretty nice!

I stayed at the top for quite awhile and then made my way back down. The way back was obviously a lot easier, so I just kept it at a steady pace, but I also had to be careful with each step as it was still a pretty sharp decline. With about 100 steps to go, my shoe got untied so I stopped to lift up my foot and it suddenly started shaking uncontrollably – I couldn’t stop it! My calves were killing me and my thighs felt like jelly so when I got to the bottom, I got a cool taro drink and sat down for as long as I possibly could. My calves didn’t stop hurting for nearly three days! My shirt looked like I had went under a shower with it on, and my hair was also soaking wet. It was then that I realised how thankful I was that I decided to do the trek alone, as I’m sure I didn’t look like the most attractive person on the planet. Apparently the songthaews don’t pick people up from the temple gates so I decided to walk towards the main road in hopes that one would eventually pass me.

I read that they would honk and then you could wave them down, but when I saw one just pass me without honking (and I didn’t notice that they were there until it was too late), I started to panic. Multiple taxis and motorbikes would stop and ask if I wanted a ride, but I didn’t want to risk it because I knew they’d end up charging me too much. All of a sudden, I heard a honk, looked over, and saw a songthaew heading in the opposite direction (back towards the temple). I somehow crossed the extremely busy freeway and hopped in the back. The songthaew dropped off some people at the temple and then he started driving even FURTHER away from Krabi town. He was determined to get as many passengers as he could so even when we thought we couldn’t fit any more people in the back of the truck, he still continued to honk. He then stopped at what seemed like a house, said he would be back in about five minutes, and walked away. Me and the other foreign passengers looked at each other, unsure of what was going on. The driver eventually came back and seemed to take as much time possible in getting us back to town. I went back to the hostel to have a cold shower and change and by that time, I was starving since it was 2:30. I walked around, got lost in a really cool street market, but eventually decided to eat at an Italian restaurant, as I think my stomach was still having difficulty with eating non-western food. I think the Italian restaurant (called Uno) was pretty authentic, as the owner definitely didn’t look like he was Thai. I decided on penne arrabbiata, which was so good! I got that with a coke for 175 baht ($7.64). After my late lunch/early dinner, I walked around for a bit and then went back to the hostel to decide what to do the next day. The rain had started from the storm and would be continuing for the next couple of days, so my options were pretty limited. The ferry to Railay beach still wouldn’t be working, so I decided that I should just take a tour to see the hot springs and the emerald pool. It was a half-day tour so I’d get back to the hostel by 2:30, and the hostel worker said that the storm wasn’t supposed to start until about 4. I went to the free bbq at about 8:30, visited with some of the other people for awhile, and then went to bed.

On Friday morning, I woke up to a bunch of rain. I double-checked to make sure my tour would still be happening and then I went back to Coconuts Cafe to have a quick breakfast. This time, I had a yogurt and fruit bowl, which was also very good. The presentation on their food and drinks are so nice!

I then went to 7-11 to pick up some snacks for the trip since I wasn’t sure I’d be able to buy a lunch anywhere. My tour was booked through Cattery Tours and they were very organised! It cost 800 baht for the tour ($34.90), which was a bit pricey but was still a good way to spend the day. They had 16 different groups going, so they gave each of us a coloured bracelet in order to keep track of our vehicles. We drove for about an hour to get to the hot springs and when we got there, they were absolutely packed! I’m glad that I was just one person cause it was easy for me to be able to squeeze in between random families, but it seemed to be more difficult for people who came in groups.

We were given just under an hour at the hot springs, but they say that you should only stay for a maximum of 15-20 minutes, as the temperatures get too high. It was pretty relaxing though, and I may have extended my time by at least 5-10 minutes 🙂 After the hot springs, we drove another 15 minutes to emerald pool and blue pool. There, we had the option to walk 800 metres through the wet path, or 1400 metres on a heightened path. I opted for the longer option, covering my backpack with my rain jacket, and trekked through the rain to the pools.

I saw emerald pool but decided to keep walking another 600 metres to blue pool, hoping to beat most of the people behind me. The path started heightened but about halfway there, it dropped back down to ground level, where there were puddles of mud everywhere – with a lot of it being unavoidable to walk through. I had to slow down quite a bit, being careful not to lose my footing and slip into the mud. I finally got to blue pool, which is exactly as its name suggests : a blue pool. You’re not allowed to swim in this pool, as it’s protected, so most people just got a picture in front of the pool and then left (including myself). I made my way back to emerald pool and had about a half hour to enjoy myself before having to walk back to the van.

I took the 800 metre walk back and I was completely worn out. I think the hot springs actually made my already-sore calf muscles even more sore! However, I made it back with five minutes to spare and then we drove back to the hostel. I showered, changed, and went to Arun Restaurant for dinner, where I had some more Tom Yum soup (since it was cold, rainy, and my last dinner in Thailand) with a coconut shake (to go with the heat of the soup) for 140 baht ($6.11). After dinner, I asked my hostel the best way to get to the airport for my 7:30 flight the next morning and they said I should leave at 5:30 in a taxi for 400 baht ($17.45). However, considering they said the same thing for me to get to Tiger Cave Temple, I wasn’t convinced. I walked to where the songthaews were to ask, but the driver didn’t understand what I was asking and just kept telling me to “get in, get in!” Luckily, there was a travel stand next to me so I asked him when the songthaews started running and he said 6am. When I asked him how much a taxi would be and he said 400 baht, I realised it would be my only option so I went back to the hostel, booked the taxi, got my bags packed up, and called it an early night. To be perfectly honest, Krabi Town wasn’t my favourite place – it’s extremely touristy and there wasn’t a lot to do. However, the weather and constant rain probably contributed to my impressions of it. I think Krabi province would probably be more worthwhile to explore so maybe I’ll have to check it out next time! Love always

Ko(h) Lanta (Dec 30-Jan 2): Kitties, New Year’s Eve, and 4 Islands

Thankfully, I had asked the Smiley owner about taking the bus to Koh Lanta before I went to bed the night before. I assumed that I could just show up at the bus stop at 8:30am, but now I’m not too sure I would have gotten a spot had I done that. I had to go to the local travel agent next to a pharmacy in Khao Sok to buy a ticket ahead of time. She gave me three options to leave: 6:30am, 8:30am, or 9:30am. I went with 8:30am, she called to make sure that there was space available, and then wrote me a ticket. It cost me 650 baht total ($28.36AUD) – 250 back to Krabi and 400 with the ferry to Koh Lanta. This service was great in that it picked me up from my accommodation and also dropped me off at my hostel in Koh Lanta, so I didn’t have to worry about paying extra from the ferry. From the time I left Khao Sok until the time I arrived in Koh Lanta, it took about 7.5 hours. On Sunday morning, I got up and ready, picked up the best “breakfast” I could find at a nearby shop (a pack of donuts and some bananas), and waited for my taxi. The ticket said that the taxi would arrive between 8:30 and 8:50, and it came shortly after 9. We then started the 4-hour trip to Krabi. This time, the 13-passenger van was full for the majority of the trip, and the driver had to turn down some passengers on the way (so I’m very happy I ended up buying the ticket beforehand). I actually didn’t end up arriving at the bus station in Krabi until just after 1:30 pm, as the driver had to make some stops along the way. Then, I waited for about a half hour until the next taxi came. I thought it was going to be just me but then we stopped at the airport and filled up the van again. We arrived at the ferry terminal around 3:30 and were on the next ferry within a half hour. A little boat had to push the ferry in the right direction, as I guess the ferry couldn’t turn on it’s own.

The ride across only took 15 minutes and then it was about a 20 minute drive to my hostel, Wayla hostel, so I arrived just before 5pm. This hostel was such a great place to stay – the owner was so friendly and hospitable, and kept the place absolutely spotless. Breakfast was also included, which was toast and bananas, as well as unlimited coffee, tea, and water all day (the water is a plus, as you usually have to buy it everywhere you go). Plus, the hostel has a friendly cat!

I stayed in a 4-person mixed dorm for 300baht/night ($13.65), and my roommates were all solo travellers – a guy from Israel, a girl from Holland, and a guy from England but living in Mongolia. As soon as I got there, I was starving since I hadn’t eaten a proper breakfast or lunch, so I went for dinner with Joe, the guy living in Mongolia. We ate at a restaurant called Three Sisters, where I had green curry with rice, and a shake for 170 baht ($7.42). I was so hungry, I forgot to take a picture! We then walked to the beach to catch the last of the sunset, and then got some drinks at one of the bars on the beach, Freedom Bar.

Koh Lanta is a very chill island, where reggae music is playing in almost every bar, and you can order a mushroom shake at most places. The bar we were at also had a tattoo parlour in the back room so if anyone wanted to make some late-night drunken decisions, they could get a permanent tattoo. There was a guy getting a half-arm tattoo of a pineapple when we were there, and the girl that he was with didn’t look too happy about it. It was definitely a good place to do some people watching!

On Monday, I decided to have a beach day so I walked about 15 minutes to a nice, quiet beach, which also had two cows hanging around! At about 1:30pm, I started getting hungry so I walked to a restaurant called Yawee Restaurant, where I had some amazing massaman curry and a passion fruit shake, for 187 baht ($8.16).

I then walked to the Lanta Animal Welfare centre, which takes in stray cats and dogs who are sick or injured, gets them back to good health, and tries to find a home for them. Some of the stories were quite sad, especially about one of the dogs (called Tomato) who had been shot so was very scared around humans. They got her better again and got her used to humans and found a new home for her at a local’s house. Unfortunately, Tomato was too slow to feel comfortable at her new home and the new owner lost patience so the owner tied the leash to the back of a motorbike and pulled Tomato behind. When Tomato came back to the Welfare centre, she was completely skinned 🙁 Now, they are working to get Tomato to feel comfortable around humans again.

The centre is over capacity – they have 55 dogs (with a maximum of 45) and 53 cats (with a maximum of 50), so they are desperately trying to find new homes for as many animals as they can. It’s neat cause they have pictures of all of the animals, and you can see if they’ve been adopted and where they’re going, so there were a few going to Denmark and Canada as well. The centre relies on volunteers (mainly tourists) to come and walk the dogs, in the morning or late afternoon – they don’t allow the dogs to be walked in the middle of the day. Every night, one of the workers (who is also a volunteer) has to sleep in the dog area to make sure they stay calm. They also have a cat cafe, so people can go and cuddle with the cats. After my tour, I stayed in the cat cafe and it started pouring rain, which meant that all of the cats were forced to sit around the edge since the middle part didn’t have a roof over it. Therefore, I had more cats to sit with!

Once the rain died down, I walked back to the hostel. That night was New Year’s Eve so I went to a nearby restaurant called Ohana with Joe and Karin (the girl from Holland). We each got a pizza, and we played dominos until around 10pm. The restaurant also had the cutest cat, so I got even more cat cuddles!

We then went back to the hostel to drop off our leftover pizzas, and got the hostel owner to join us for a drink. We went to a bar on the beach called Moonwalk Bar and waited for the countdown. Many people were releasing lanterns into the air, and then after the countdown, they lit a “Happy New Year” sign on fire, and fireworks went off along the beach (some too close for comfort). After we finished our drinks, we headed back to the hostel, as I had a tour the next morning.

On Tuesday morning, I was picked up from the hostel at 8:15 to go on the Four Islands tour. I read about this tour before coming to Koh Lanta, but I also read reviews about it being too crowded. Maybe going on New Year’s Day was a smart thing for me to do because there only ended up being 10 people on my longtail boat (I think normally, there’s about 25 people), and we ended up getting a lot of the areas to ourselves. There are tons of companies that do the Four Islands tour and the cheapest I could find online was for 1300 baht. Luckily, I asked my hostel owner and he booked my tour through a company called Lanta Longtail, and it only cost me 800 baht. I also gave a 100 baht tip so overall, it was $39.27.

We drove to the south of Koh Lanta, got on our boat and travelled for quite awhile to Koh Chueak, where we were given a half hour for snorkelling. I have had difficulties snorkelling when I was in Cuba because as soon as I put my face in the water, it started burning and I was forced to get out and pour my water bottle on my face. I was quite hesitant to try it again, but surprisingly, I didn’t have that problem here! The tour guide was great and pointed out where to go, and even dove down into the water to point out some clownfish for me to see. Apparently the boat belonged to the main guide, the driver was his dad, and his mom had cooked the lunch.

After that, we went to Koh Waen to snorkel for another 30 minutes. This place had quite a few more fish but I kept feeling slight stings on my legs so I’m pretty sure there were mini jellyfish around.

We then went to Ko Muk. There, we had to swim through Morakot Cave (where there were tons of bats!) to get to Emerald Lagoon. All of the tours have to arrive around the same time, as you can only swim through the cave at low tide. However, when we got to the lagoon we had the place to ourselves for a few minutes. It was such a nice area to go to, and seemed like a little piece of paradise.

Once all of the other tour groups showed up, we left and went to the last island called Ko Ngai. This was the biggest island and it had a long strip of sand, where we enjoyed our lunch. Afterwards, we had an hour to hang around before we headed back to Koh Lanta.

I arrived back to my hostel shortly after 4pm so I showered and relaxed for a bit – I was completely exhausted! It started pouring so we decided to skip watching the sunset. However, the rain stopped 6 minutes before sunset so Joe decided to run to the beach. Karin and I were just going to watch from our patio but we couldn’t get a good view, so we decided to hurry to the beach as well but on the way, it started to pour! Her and I were trapped at a bar on the beach, we missed the sun setting, and we didn’t have any money to buy anything.

We decided to run back to the hostel after our stomachs took over, and were completely soaked when we arrived. We got our money and met Joe back at Ohana, and all of us were completely worn out. After dinner and a quick game of dominos, we headed back to the hostel and went to bed.

On Wednesday, I took my time getting up, getting ready, having breakfast, and packing up my things. Karin and I were going to go to the beach but we stopped for lunch at a place called Nong Pheat kitchen. I got a glass noodle spicy salad with shrimp but by the time we got our food, I think the heat started getting to me and I felt too sick to eat.

We stayed there for so long that we didn’t have time to go to the beach so we headed to the hostel and I waited for my taxi, which was scheduled to pick me up at 2:20pm. I was seriously contemplating skipping my time in Krabi because I didn’t want to leave Koh Lanta, but I decided I should continue with my plans. I hope to make it back there again someday!

I’d probably recommend renting a motorbike, as there’s so much to see and I was quite limited with only being able to walk. My hostel owner rents out motorbikes for 200 baht/day ($8.93) so it’s extremely cheap but since I didn’t have an international drivers license (which isn’t a huge deal here unless you need to be covered by insurance), and I don’t have any past experiences riding a motorbike, I decided not to risk it. Maybe next time though!

*Please note that all dollar conversions are Australian dollars (AUD)

Khao Sok (Dec 27-30): A Slice of Paradise

My trip to Khao Sok wasn’t horrible… I had been nervous about making the bus on time, as I read that there would only be one bus per day from Krabi to Khao Sok, which was at 11:30am. My original plan was to fly to Krabi from Bangkok the night of December 26, spend the night in Krabi, and take the bus to Khao Sok on the 27th. I found my flight on Skyscanner (as I always do) but I booked the tickets through an agency called Travelgenio, which is a TERRIBLE agency – I would avoid it at all costs (you can see that it has many negative reviews). Anyway, the airline had cancelled my flight on the 26th so the agency changed my flight to 5:30am on the 27th. I hate morning flights and I also knew that I’d be cutting it close to catch the bus at 11:30, plus I had already booked my accommodation in Krabi the night of the 26th. Therefore, I emailed and asked if I could still get a flight on the 26th (this was back at the beginning of November). They wrote back two weeks later and gave me two options on the 26th. I immediately wrote back and chose one option, but said I could do the other option as well (I just wanted to get a flight on the 26th). They wrote back a week later and said that they’ve seen my confirmation and would send me the new itinerary shortly. Then the next day, they wrote and said the airline would only allow 5:30am on the 26th or 5:30am on the 27th. I immediately wrote back and said I’d prefer the option on the 26th. Another week later, they wrote back and said that they’ve seen my confirmation and would send me a new itinerary. Then a week after that, they said that the airline would only allow December 27th at 5:30am, which was the original flight! It took nearly a month and a half to arrive to this conclusion, so I wasn’t too impressed. I finally agreed with the flight change and the next day (December 12), they said they’ve seen my confirmation and would send me a new itinerary shortly. However, five days before my flight, I still hadn’t received confirmation so I emailed them. No reply… The day before my flight, I STILL hadn’t received anything so I emailed them again. I was so angry that I wrote a review on Trustpilot about how horrible the company was, and I got a reply within a few hours. They told me to send an email to their advanced support department about my booking, so I did, and they FINALLY sent me my itinerary. The person who I had been emailing since November wrote me TEN HOURS AFTER my flight with a reservation confirmation and electronic ticket… absolutely terrible service. Again, avoid at all costs! Anyway, I wanted to be sure I had a spot on the plane since I wasn’t able to check-in online so I got to the Bangkok airport at 10pm, kept myself occupied until 3:30am, and went to check-in. I gave the travel agent my passport and she kept asking me questions and then was taking an awfully long time to check me in. She asked if I could wait a minute, took a screenshot of her computer, and got up to show her phone to someone at the back. That’s when panic started to set in – I wasn’t sure if I’d be getting onto that plane. After about 5-10 minutes, she came back and thankfully printed out my boarding pass. I went through security, didn’t even bother trying to sleep, and boarded the plane.

The flight was only an hour and ten minutes so I arrived in Krabi at 7am. I went to the information desk to ask about getting to Khao Sok, but he basically only suggested taking a taxi, which I’m sure would have cost at least 2000 baht. His only other suggestion was to go to the Krabi bus station and see if there was a bus there. My ticket to the bus station was 80 baht ($3.49) and when I got on the bus, the bus driver asked where I was going so I told him. Then when we arrived at the bus station and I was about to get off, he asked “Khao Sok?” I nodded and he yelled over to someone at the station who walked me to the correct till to buy my ticket. It was 7:30 when I got to the station and she said the bus wouldn’t be until 10am. I paid 250 baht for my ticket ($10.91) and went to the only restaurant there to get some food. I got fried rice with chicken but upon taking a bite of a big chunk of chicken, I noticed it was still raw on the inside so I quickly spat it out and pushed all the chicken to the side. I went to the bathroom right before having to leave, had to pay 3 baht to use the toilet, and then realised I’d be forced to use my first squat toilet on this trip (also, there’s never any toilet paper so luckily I came prepared when I bought a 6-pack of tissues!). Finally at 10, I got on the bus, which was actually a 13-passenger van. It was just me and another girl until she got off after about two hours. Khao Sok is only 100km away from Krabi and the schedule makes it look like you arrive an hour later but the driver went along the length of the coast so it ended up taking four hours total. After the girl got off, I got the van to myself for an hour, and then we picked up a mom with her two boys and all got off at Khao Sok. The taxi driver asked where I was staying and dropped me off right at Smiley Bungalows, so I gave him a tip. The place was completely deserted when I arrived but eventually the daughter showed up and showed me to my room. The bungalows were like treehouses, and I got a room with a queen-sized bed and my own bathroom; it was so nice! I had a much-needed shower and even though I was exhausted, I walked around town until 5 and then had dinner at a place called Lab Roi-Et, where I had Pad Thai and a Thai coffee. My night at Smiley Bungalow was only 300 baht ($13), which was amazing!

I had booked a 2-day/1-night tour to go to Smiley Lakehouse the next day so I had to get up and ready for breakfast at 8am the next morning. I had breakfast with a couple from the Netherlands (both teachers) and a girl from Hawaii (also a teacher). Everyone who I’ve met up until this point and on this tour is only in Asia for 2 or 3 weeks for the Christmas holidays, and many were couples (one was on their honeymoon!). There were about 25 people on our tour, so it was a good amount of people. We left Smiley Bungalows in two 13-passenger vans and drove towards the pier at about 9:30am. After an hour, we stopped in a small town to pick up food for 20 minutes and then drove another 20 minutes to the pier. We then got on two longtail boats and drove for another hour across Chiao Lan lake to Smiley Lakehouse. The boat ride there was absolutely gorgeous, and the scenery was like nothing I’ve seen before.

I was absolutely amazed and couldn’t believe I was in a place that was so beautiful! We arrived at the Lakehouse around 12:30, were told our room numbers to settle in, and were served lunch at 1. We each got our own room with our own bathroom, and each room came with two queen-sized mattresses, plus our door opened right up onto the lake – it was amazing!

The thing I loved about this tour was that it was 2500 baht plus a 300 baht national park entry fee ($122.16) per person no matter what – they didn’t charge a single supplement fee to make up for the fact that there was only one person in a 2+ person room (which solo travellers like myself often get cheated with). The tour also included five meals – two breakfasts, two lunches, and one supper. After lunch, we were given free time until 5pm. There was only one other solo traveller on this trip, so her and I took a kayak out for a couple hours. However, with neither of us having much experience with kayaks, we continued just spinning around in circles. Once we got far enough, we gave up and just sat on the kayak in the middle of the lake.

We still had an hour of free time when we got back, so I decided to go for a swim. The company said that we had to wear life jackets if we went swimming or kayaking because there was a 20-35 metre drop from our deck but since I had enough experience swimming, and other people weren’t wearing life jackets, I decided not to either. However, AFTER our free time was finished, the tour guide said that there were cobras in the lake and one time, someone was swimming and was either bitten or pulled down by a cobra and drowned. I likely wouldn’t have went into the lake knowing this information so I’m glad they told us this after the fact. At 5pm, we went on a night safari, but only saw one monkey in the far distance. However, we got a nice view of the sunset!

We got back around 7pm, had dinner, and then I visited with two girls from South Africa who were also teachers (one is teaching in Thailand, which started giving me ideas of moving to Thailand to teach). We had to be ready for 6:40am the next morning, so we didn’t stay up too late.

On Saturday morning, we met at 6:40 to go on a morning safari. It was so foggy, it felt like we were in a scene from Jurassic Park. We were waiting for dinosaurs to jump out at any given moment! This time, we were a bit more successful in finding monkeys.

We went back at 8am to have breakfast and then we were given half an hour to pack up all of our stuff before our cave trek. We got in the boat to make our way to the Nam Taloo hiking trail and were warned that we’d be going through water up to our shoulders, so I decided to rent some shoes (for 50 baht – $2), as I didn’t want to ruin my new ones.

We hiked for quite awhile – walking through lots of mud and some streams and then we finally made it to the cave entrance. Apparently, leeches are abundant throughout the park, so we had to keep doing “leech checks” every once in awhile.

We basically spent the entire time in the cave walking through water, and having to scale some of the walls – I felt like Spider-Man! We each had a head lamp, but many times, it was still too dark to see where you were stepping in the water.

Along the hiking trail and in the cave, the guides pointed out numerous plants, spiders, and centipedes that were poisonous, so that was comforting… After about 45 minutes, we made it to the bat cave, where we just saw a couple of bats. Then, we had to turn around and make our way back. I had never done anything like it before and it was such a fun experience; I had a great time!

We got back to the Lakehouse at about 1pm, had a quick lunch, changed clothes, and then we had to travel back to Khao Sok.

Again, we had to take a one-hour boat ride, and then drove back to the bungalows. We got back just before 5pm so I showered, went out for dinner, and bought my bus ticket for the next day, and went to bed. Khao Sok is one of those places that still hasn’t caught on in popularity, which adds to its charm. It’s an absolute gem of a place – I was so sad to leave! Until next time…